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Turkey Turd
5.11c,
Trad, 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.3 from 30
votes
FA: Earl Wiggins & Jimmy Dunn, May 1975?
Colorado
> S Platte
> Turkey Rocks
> Turkey Tail
Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This route is located on Turkey Tail, about 75' right of
Whimsical Dreams. Locate the "Turkey Turd", which is a narrow pillar of rock that sticks out from the wall, about 60' off the ground.
Climb either side of that pillar (5.8 or so either way), the left side involves some easy OW while the right side requires stemming on good rock. The crux involves pulling the roof above the "Turkey Turd" pillar. An awkward, series of insecure thin hand jams pulls the roof where the crack widens to perfect hands. Luckily the gear is bomber. Two bolts are reached after about 120'.
You can rap (and TR [P1&2]) with a single 70m rope, or continue to the summit.
Per
Mark Rolofson:
Pitch 2 is the business (5.11c). Obviously this above description combines the first two pitches. It seemed nice to be in close communication with your partner. Nowadays it makes sense to stretch the rope out.
Pitch 3: (5.9) ascend a beautiful finger crack that peters out. Face climb past one bolt to the top. Definitely do the whole route.
Protection
The crux section requires finger to hand-sized gear. Depending on which start you use, you may need some pretty wide gear for the start. Save a #2 Camalot for the short section above the roof.
Down there somewhere
Colorado Springs, CO
Pitch 3: (5.9) Ascend a beautiful finger crack that peters out. Face climb past one bolt to the top. Definitely do the whole route. I have also finished with the "Wise Crack" (5.11d) that ascends a wild finger / hand roof crack (above the first pitch & a half of Sidewinder). This is a great way to get in a harder finish. Jul 27, 2017