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Routes in South Peak West Face (Main Area)
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A Better Way T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Agony T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agony Til Dawn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrested Mental Development 'AMD' T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Back to the Front T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Banana T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Banana Peels T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Before the Fall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Bite, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Mamba T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Blackbird T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breakneck T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Breakneck Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bring on the Nubiles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Burning Tendons T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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By Pass T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cast of Thousands T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Casual In The Mind's Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Caught My Eye T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Clarke's Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockfight T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Cockscomb Overhang Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Cockscomb Pine Tree - Variation: Cockscomb Overhang T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Conn's West Corner Start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conn's West Direct T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Cottonmouth - Venom T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crispy Critter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Critter Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Crusher Critter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Debbie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Front C T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gendarme Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gendarme South Face, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gendarme, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Green Dragon T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Green Glass Door S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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Green Magic in the Hills S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b PG13 |
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Green Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gunsight to South Peak T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gunsight to South Peak Direct T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Heartburn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hit the Silk T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Horrendous Traverse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Humphrey's Head T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Inner Planet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Jankowitz-Kamm T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kosher Critter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Le Gourmet T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Le Gourmet - Variation: Easy Over T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Gourmet Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Manual Dexterity T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Marshall's Madness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mongoose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Monkey See Monkey Do T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Neck Press T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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NOVA T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Old Ladies Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Old Man's Route T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Past & Pleasant S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pedro's Problem T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pleasant Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pleasant Overhangs T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 PG13 |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Direct Start T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pleasant Overhangs - Variation: Nowhere to Run T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pleasant Surprise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Prune T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right to the Left (A Thought Forgotten ) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scrambled Leggs T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Seneca Daze S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Sidewinder T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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So What T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Sorcerer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Thais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Thais - Variation Thais Escape T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Thais Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tomato T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Traffic Jam T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Triple S T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Triple S - Variation: Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Viper, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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West Pole T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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West Pole Direct Finish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Pole Direct Start T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, 320 ft (97 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 38.83453, -79.36677 |
| FA: | John Christian and Arnold Wexler in 1971 |
| Page Views: | 8,277 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Russell Hobart on Oct 1, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Andy Weinmann, Pat Goodman |
Description
Pitch 1 is about 5.5, with a PG section in the middle bit and then creative protection the rest of the way. Interesting movements. You will end up on the Le Gourmet Traverse Ledge, just a short distance to the left of the Front C corner. Two sets of bolted anchors are nearby if you need to descend but you should make a trad gear anchor at the base of some cracks in the wall, right at the start of P2.
Pitch 2 - This has great protection the whole way with a well defined crux near the top. The crux is committing, but the gear options are excellent. This is generally the crux pitch of the route and the best quality pitch of the route, though pitch 3 and 4 are interesting. Many parties here at the top as the pitch finished on the Old Man's Traverse Ledge. Plenty of anchor options
Pitch 3 - two start options...either the left or right side the huge flake feature in front of you. The right side is the original route; the left side is a variation and is probably a touch harder, but good jamming (a #4 cam comes in handy). Both options lead you to the same place. Work up to the top of the flake, then traverse right past some pins to some cracks at a short, left-facing corner. Work up this to a small ledge with a tree and belay. This is actually a really nice perch from which to belay.
Pitch 4 - Move up behind the tree and gain a stance just below a steep looking fin of rock that defines the top of the west side of the Conn's West gully. Climb directly up the cracks in the edge of the fin to the top. Rigging a belay at the top here requires some thinking about rope drag and some creative placements. One option is to use some directionals, traverse the top of the fin, and step across the top of the gully (this is also where Le Gourmet's last pitch finishes). Build an anchor, potentially using the two-bolt anchor that is nearby if you can manage the rope drag.
The Prune Incident- In '96 a climber set a #1 Camalot off the belay station then went up clipping pitons the whole way. He fell at the crux and every piton failed with only the camalot catching. Apparently he almost hit a woman starting the first pitch. Gendarme climb shop displays some of those pitons.
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