Predator  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Ward Smith, 1998 Submitted By:  Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Predator during a spring rain shower.

This would ...

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Description 

You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.

The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.

Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).

After getting a vote of confidence from you belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.

This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.

Protection 

Bolts. Draws are fixed. On redpoint attempts, a climber usually clips every other draw on the prow. The fall is the definition of clean.

A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.

Photos of Predator Slideshow

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The unmistakable prow of Predator. The ledge can b...	A closeup of the meat of the route.	Local starting the roof
Muel clipping his way up this pumpy line.	Sam Todzia just sticking to the desperate upper pu...	Ladd flashing the dyno
Ladd setting up for the final moves	The ledge on top of Tropicana. The rightmost climb...	Ladd trying to get something back after the dyno.
Ladd maxing out on the upper pump crux	Walker on Predator.	A not so uncommon sight on Predator
Dave Sharratt on Predator.	Mathieu fontaine getting up there	lily on predator photo by mathieu fontaine
lily going for it photo by mathieu fontaine	mathieu fontaine falling in the fall	lily up on the prow of predator photo by mathieu f...
mathieu fontaine cutting free	mathieu fontaine i just liked the black and white ...	looking down on Predator :) Lily
lily on the upper moves... from a new angle	i LOVE this perspective.. lily, going for it!	YES! i love this...
lily dynoing above the trees	Catherine LaFlamme heading up the juggy lower port...	Bill Schiffone starting up Predator - Sarah Cyrier...
Aron maxing out on the predator ledge.	a different view of predator... posted full size s...	if you havent yet, you want to get here...
the dead point hold...	the loaf hold