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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mark Sprague / 1998
Page Views: 10,202 total, 78/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 11, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


113 Opinions

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Description

Endurance is the name of the game when attempting this route.
The line of jugs over your head may feel rather slippery due its extreme popularity (and if you opt NOT to used the feet on the opposing roof to your right...hint, hint!), but don't let that dissuade you--this route is super fun! As one steps from the massive spike that marks the beginning of this route, engaging and sequential moves are encountered all the way to the chains. The real crux of the route comes about midway out the roof when you are forced to either deadpoint off a hidden letterbox slot or finesse your way on atrociously slopey edges. Either way you'll end up grappling with a two-handed jug that looks curiously like a gaping Piranha mouth! Finish by surmounting a small roof and traversing right under the final overhang to a couple of pumpy, and airy, moves to the chains. After you clip the anchors, you will lower off about 40 to 50 feet out from the belayer, so be careful of the looming tree branches below you and the steep bank you will ultimately lower on to. Despite the potential for a little moisture around the last two bolts during rain, this routes stays predominantly dry even when it is dumping out.
Word of advice: Most people stick clip the first bolt, as a ground fall from here would spell certain doom!

Location

Upper left section of Orange Crush at the man-made ledge. The steepest line of fixed draws over your head that angle up and left under and then over the enormous roof.

Protection

8 fixed quickdraws, and a glue-in bolt for the belayer.
Graham O.
  5.12a
Graham O.  
  5.12a
Cool route, good first 5.12. Only one stopper move, the rest is a cakewalk if you that one big move. Aug 27, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
youtu.be/841xE2vmAw0 Jul 6, 2016
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Most wouldn't really call it "safe" to just use trad gear. The one person who I know lead it while placing gear regularly solos that grade and had climbed the route many times, so he was probably comfortable having protection for only parts of the route. It is schist and quite soft and it has gotten pretty polished in parts (holds break too). Frankly, I think it is not the brightest idea, but it is your decision. I can think of plenty of other ways to test yourself with trad gear at Rumney that are probably more worthy, like going for the second (at least known) lead of Losing Your Life and Living Through It a 12c trad route at Prudential or maybe the trad link from the anchor of Big Kahuna angling up the face to the anchors of E Ticket at Waimea. Jun 14, 2016
Does anyone have any beta on the gear it would take to do this without the bolts? Would like to do it in better style as I've heard it goes safely on gear. Thanks! Jun 14, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Spoke with a guy at CRG Watertown yesterday that said a (large) ticked hold near the 2nd clip completely broke off over when he was on this during the 11-12 July weekend. He said there's another ticked hold near it, though it may not be as good of a hold. Unclear how this affects the character of the route. Jul 14, 2015
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.12a/b
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
  5.12a/b
It can be damp from the overnight dew... but the route stays pretty dry Apr 12, 2014
J Meagher
  5.12b
J Meagher  
  5.12b
Would it be unreasonable to expect to find this dry tomorrow? Apr 12, 2014
S. Neoh  
Great news about cable draws on all the bolts. I've not been back since last year. Now I am motivated! I can't say I have seen anyone send this route with a real dynamic move thru the crux tho. I do however cut my feet loose and reset to finish the crux sequence. Aug 18, 2013
J Meagher
  5.12b
J Meagher  
  5.12b
Excellent route for people who love to climb hard but are nervous about pushing themselves on lead, because the falls are incredibly safe. Awesome jug hauling for the first 4 bolts and a dynamic crux between the 4th and 5th bolts. There are now permanent cable draws on all 8 bolts Aug 18, 2013
First 3 fixed draws and draw after the cable draw replaced 4.27.13. One of the anchor biners also replaced. Things are getting pretty old all around at Orange Crush... take some time and do what you can when you see things showing signs of wear. Apr 28, 2013
The biner on the right set of chains is wearing down to a fairly sharp groove. I didn't have any on me, so I didn't replace it, but I did flip it so I wasn't running my rope over it. Next time I make it over there, I will try to remember to bring some hardware to replace it but it might be a few weeks. Apr 15, 2013
JohnnyG  
We replaced the rope-side biner on the 2nd draw a couple days ago. It was well worn and wicked sharp. Amazing how fast this can happen, considering the lower biners were reported as fine a couple weeks ago. Oct 14, 2012
S. Neoh  
Today we replaced the rope-side biner on the top 2 fixed draws before the anchor. The ones we took down have sharp edges on them that might do a number on one's rope. The other six rope-side biners are fine. In fact, many thanks to the party who replaced the fourth fixed (the one which takes the most falls) with a steel cable perma draw. Kudos!
We inspected the nylon on the remaining seven draws and all appear fine for the time being. If you want to replace a nylon dogbone, bring a small wrench to loosen the quicklink that attaches it to the bolt/hanger and then retighten the link. Sep 22, 2012
andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.12b
andyscott   Massachusetts
  5.12b
This is a really awesome climb, unfortunatley many of the holds are kinda greasy. But it is still really good. Jun 10, 2010