Avg: 3.1 from 201 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Mark Sprague / 1998|
|Page Views:||15,242 total · 81/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Mar 11, 2007 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall|
The line of jugs over your head may feel rather slippery due its extreme popularity (and if you opt NOT to used the feet on the opposing roof to your right...hint, hint!), but don't let that dissuade you--this route is super fun! As one steps from the massive spike that marks the beginning of this route, engaging and sequential moves are encountered all the way to the chains. The real crux of the route comes about midway out the roof when you are forced to either deadpoint off a hidden letterbox slot or finesse your way on atrociously slopey edges. Either way you'll end up grappling with a two-handed jug that looks curiously like a gaping Piranha mouth! Finish by surmounting a small roof and traversing right under the final overhang to a couple of pumpy, and airy, moves to the chains. After you clip the anchors, you will lower off about 40 to 50 feet out from the belayer, so be careful of the looming tree branches below you and the steep bank you will ultimately lower on to. Despite the potential for a little moisture around the last two bolts during rain, this routes stays predominantly dry even when it is dumping out.
Word of advice: Most people stick clip the first bolt, as a ground fall from here would spell certain doom!
8 fixed quickdraws, and a glue-in bolt for the belayer. Check the condition of any fixed gear well. The route is popular, with frequent falls and it can get worn sharp. Working the route on TR is strongly not recommended, as a fall with the rope coming from above pulls the rope into a notch that destroys the rope. Some very scary rope cuts have been observed.