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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Art Mooney, 1992
Page Views: 10,129 total, 80/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 20, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Don't get bitten by the venomous lure of this Orange Crush ultra-classic!

Move after move, Black Mamba requires the climber to call on a full repertoire of corner and face climbing technique. Additionally, the holds you are gunning for, save for a select few, are not so obvious, making the redpoint that more elusive.

Two cruxes are encountered: The first is at about mid-height with a couple of thin moves above your last bolt to a clipping stance. The second crux involves a high left foot, a credit card for your right hand and a hidden hold out left. And it just so happens to be while the first set of anchors are staring you right in the eyes!

Most people climb to the first set of anchors, but for more enduro testing you can move left after the first set of anchors and climb the left trending, and pumpy face for many more bolts. This extension adds similar climbing and makes the route a solid 11c.

Location

At the bottom right end of the cliff is the prominent arete/right face of Prime Climb (another stellar and LOOOONG 11b). Black Mamba starts just to the left on top of a terrace looking feature.

Protection

For the first pitch, 6 bolts and chains. The first bolt is somewhat hidden from view.

If you plan on continuing to the top in one pitch (recommended), bring at least 14 draws.
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow
Bozeman, Montana
 
Jimmy Downhillinthesnow   Bozeman, Montana
 
Go to the top! Aug 13, 2017
Troy S
Somerville, MA
 
Troy S   Somerville, MA
 
Yeah, gotta take that back. Just repeated it and P1 felt more like an 11a this time. Oct 3, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
The most recent edition of Ward's guide has pitch 1 at 11b and pitch 2 at 11c. Sep 20, 2016
S. Neoh  
I think I read somewhere (perhaps Ward's Guide) that P1 is generally taken as .11a. I would agree with that or .10d. Sep 19, 2016
Troy S
Somerville, MA
 
Troy S   Somerville, MA
 
The second pitch is where the route climbs at 11c. The first pitch didn't feel much harder than 10c to me. Sep 19, 2016
Graham O.  
 
WOW! One adventure of a climb! Definite crux, pumpy, a gazillion features, a top out (!!!), and a fantastic view (especially in Autumn). One of the best climbs I have done at Rumney, and definitely one of the best at Rumney (but I think Flyin' Hawaiian takes the cake for best 5.11 :)). Aug 13, 2016
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
Super fun tech climbing. I wouldn't say it requires a full reportoire of corner technique though, felt more like thin face with the good luck of the feature being scooped so you can get great feet and stances the whole way.. Sep 21, 2015
Eric Chabot
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
Eric Chabot   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
To clean after leading the whole thing, it helps to clip your rope (climber's side) into one of the midway anchor's fixed biners as a directional while being lowered. This allows you to be lowered straight down above your remaining bolts and clean them without penduluming all over the place.

Fantastic route, probably the best I have done at Rumney. Haven't done Crusher yet though so we'll see! Oct 15, 2014
Ming
  5.11c
Ming  
  5.11c
For anyone who is considering this route you have to do the "whole" route - the first part is fine but it isn't that memorable but what makes this line a super classic is the whole line all the up through the V-slot and topping out of Orange Crush. As for projecting it - since I just finish projecting it I would say it's safe as long as the 3rd bolt is clipped - right before the first crux.

I have tried harder lines at Rumney but so far in the 11s only Buried Treasure and this route bring a smile to my face every time I climb them. This is one of the best 11st at Rumney for sure! Oct 14, 2013
How safe are the falls on this? I'm breaking into the 11c grade and I'm wondering if this would be a good project (endurance crimping is my style) Sep 22, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Usually in the summer and dry parts of the fall, but this section of the cliff often drips, especially above the first anchor. Nov 19, 2012
is this normally dry? Nov 19, 2012
Tyson Miller
Lebanon, NH
  5.11d
Tyson Miller   Lebanon, NH
  5.11d
It is helpful to back clean the bolt before the first anchor, and put a long draw/sling on the first anchor to not get terrible rope drag at the top. Aug 23, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
If going to the top (as you should) I suggest bringing a couple slings to use on the first belay and under the roof to eliminate drag. A few longer draws are good in spots too. Sep 15, 2011
Black Mamba was in rare early summer form last friday - it was dry (both parts)! I think the recent rain might have gotten it a little wet, but it is drying out early for sure. Jun 9, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Matt, I won't drink the cool aid...I won't drink the cool aid... Dec 17, 2007
Jay, Jay, Jay....just drink the cool aid, 2 against 1..I don't see anyone else agreeing with you. Dec 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Maurice, living in Arizona must skew your perspective. Evidently it's easy to forget what Rumney's all about.

The rock on the Crusher is not nearly as good as the pristine rock on Black Mamba. Black Mamba is also more sustained... Nov 28, 2007
Maurice Liddy
Plymouth, NH
  5.11c
Maurice Liddy   Plymouth, NH
  5.11c
No way, The Crusher rules! And distance hasnt warped my memory either :)
Black Mamba is superb all the same. Nov 27, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Matt, distance must have warped your memory. Black Mamba has got to be waaay better than The Crusher. Sep 17, 2007
Black mamba is good but Crusher is the best 5.11!!! Sep 17, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
I think this might be the best 5.11 at Rumney. The climbing is interesting, sustained, and the route is pretty long. All in all, an excellent route, especially if you go to the top, as the best climbing is on the upper half. Jul 20, 2007