Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 1,237 total · 12/month
Shared By: SmithBro on Mar 1, 2011
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Climb Captain hook,and carry on up the big bad roof. The crux is 10' from the top, with a fixed wire above it for dogging

Location

Far right Orange Crush

Protection

13 Bolts with some long runners down low.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
This is a great second pitch that deserves more action. Second pitch 12s seem to languish at Rumney though for some reason. I'm not usually for fixed draws, but this route and Tinkerbell to the right would be good candidates for them if they were rock colored. The route is pumpy, burly and technical. Often wet in the spring and the ravens nesting off to the left won't like you climbing here, so the route is seasonal.
After climbing Captain Hook, I suggest continuing up to the anchor further up at the beginning of the headwall, clipping in direct then pulling your rope up through the protection below and getting put back on belay to reduce rope drag. It will free up the popular Captain Hook too while you tackle the second pitch. Mar 9, 2011