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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague, 1998
Page Views: 3,944 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jen Lloyd on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

NOTE: Upgraded from 12d to 13a due to a hold breaking in 2010.

Above the two eyebolt belay anchor, climb up the steep wall on positive holds to a long move up and right to a good rail. WAIT! The rail fell off! The new beta for this section apparently involves a V6/7 boulder problem, making this formerly 5.12d route more like 13a. I'll have to get out there and try it soon to give a better description. (Feel free to comment if you've been on this route post-broken-hold and have something to add.) After the new boulder problem, establish a good left kneebar for a rest, then continue up the overhanging corner/ramp through a series of marginal kneebars and contorted body positions. Perch on a small ledge above this system for a bit of a rest, then pump through the last steep section on good holds to clip the last bolt of Orangahang, then the anchor.

Protection

10 bolts (fixed) to Lower Offs.

Photos

Andrew Freeman
Brookline, MA
  5.12d
Andrew Freeman   Brookline, MA
  5.12d
Broken now? Harder perhaps? Rumors and innuendo? Jun 21, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Apparently a big pinch ripped off from the section just before you get to the ramp, so both this route and Tin Monkeys are going to be harder. If anybody does them, please let us know what you think. Jun 22, 2010
so I did tin man last sat. in my opinion it is harder than kundilini, but softer than the linkup. not as pumpy as dinosaur but the moves felt harder. the new boulder problem feels at least v6. Aug 17, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13a
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13a
i hear 13a or 13b since the broken hold... it would be cool if this description and grade could be updated... Oct 12, 2011
Jen Lloyd
Orange, VT
 
Jen Lloyd   Orange, VT
 
Kind of hard to update the description having not climbed the new sequence. Also impossible to suggest a grade. I made updates based on the above comments but actually the route was downgraded to 12c/d in Ward's new guidebook so if the boulder problem really is "only" V6 maybe 12d is still accurate. Like I said I have no personal experience to base this on (YET). Maybe I have a new re-project (retropoint?)
Mark, thanks for posting those photos! You must have dug those out of the archives from '06 or '07? I had forgotten you took them. Oct 20, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
You are very welcome. Yup, aug '07. I had forgotten I had them too, but found them while poking through my files. Here are a couple more from the series.

I really liked this route when I put it up. The start reminds me of Red River Gorge climbing, then the bouldery section just before the ramp was powerful and body intensive. The ramp is harder than it looks, requiring subtle foot placements to get the kneebars, and big barndoory crossovers. I watched Vadim V. spanking himself on this when he wasn't seeing the kneebars. The finish is nice pumpy jugs. Oct 20, 2011
Jen Lloyd
Orange, VT
 
Jen Lloyd   Orange, VT
 
Yeah, it kind of looks like you could just walk up the ramp, doesn't it? The handholds all seem to be turned the wrong way, if I remember correctly. It's a really fun route to figure out! Oct 20, 2011
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
It seems the Tin Man is now missing his "heart"... how fitting. Aug 27, 2013

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