Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague, 1998
Page Views: 4,165 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jen Lloyd on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

NOTE: Upgraded from 12d to 13a due to a hold breaking in 2010.

Above the two eyebolt belay anchor, climb up the steep wall on positive holds to a long move up and right to a good rail. WAIT! The rail fell off! The new beta for this section apparently involves a V6/7 boulder problem, making this formerly 5.12d route more like 13a. I'll have to get out there and try it soon to give a better description. (Feel free to comment if you've been on this route post-broken-hold and have something to add.) After the new boulder problem, establish a good left kneebar for a rest, then continue up the overhanging corner/ramp through a series of marginal kneebars and contorted body positions. Perch on a small ledge above this system for a bit of a rest, then pump through the last steep section on good holds to clip the last bolt of Orangahang, then the anchor.

Protection

10 bolts (fixed) to Lower Offs.

Photos