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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 4,386 total, 32/month
Shared By: Zach Landis on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

NOTE: Upgraded from 13a to 13b due to a hold breaking in 2010.

Commence this merry link-up by mounting the first crux of Tin Man, then mop up by devouring the meat and potatoes of Flying Monkeys. Some relish this route more than either of it's forebears because it is somewhat more direct, and circumnavigates both the unwieldy finish of Tin Man, and circuitous traverse start to Flying Monkeys. Prepare for adversity in the low crux, as a key undercling has exfoliated of late.

Location

Upper left Orange Crush, climb off a man-made ledge. Just to the right of Orangahang.

Protection

10 bolts
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
This one is good. Also on this wall, Dynosoar 13a and Predator 13a/b are pretty classic.

Over on the New Wave wall, I think Dark Star 13c is really good if you like 20 degree overhanging face climbing. The extension finish Strict Scrutiny bumps it up a letter. Get on it early in the morning before it gets blasting in the sun or end of day.

Of course you can't miss Waimea Cliff. Pretty much all the full length routes there are fantastic, especially Urban Surfer and Barracuda and the various variations (13b and up). I really liked Corral Sea 13b (finish out the Man Overboard roof as an alt finish) and Cote D'Azure, both 13bs. Waimea also has some super good 12s that shouldn't be missed.

The Main Cliff may still be closed for the peregrines, but if not, it has 3 really good 13s , Thin Man 13a/b, Rocket Man 13c and Beat Junkie 13b. I never finished Beat Junkie, but it looks incredible and everybody raves about it. This cliff is a big sun bowl, so you either have to give a quick burn early in the morning or wait until the end of the day when the sun is off it and the rock has cooled.

If you are into shorter, steep, power endurance, Monsters from the Id Crag has some good hard routes including the 13b steep crack Journy to the Mushroom Planet. Also of note there are Parallel Universe 13d and Feeding Frenzy 13c/d

That should keep you busy. There are others, but those are ones that stand out to me atm. It depends how much time you have, but you shouldn't miss seeing Waimea, Orange Crush (New Wave is connected to it's right side), Monsters and the Main Cliff if it is open

-Of course you could use this site to pick them out for you. mountainproject.com/scripts… Feb 2, 2011
Hey so i'm from Gunnison Colorado, and i'm picking my girlfriend up at UVM at the start of the summer. While i'm in the area I really wanna check out some good east coast climbing and some of my friends here at western state college said that this was the place. What are some of the most classic 5.13's in this area Feb 2, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13b
That's cool. I didn't try a dyno. I would argue that it's still harder, though. The moves at that spot didn't used to be very hard. Aug 2, 2010
I did Tin Monkeys with the new beta on Saturday. There are other ways of doing it to avoid the undercling. I did a dyno with my left hand on the top of the big sidepull at the 4th bolt. It's a powerful move but a lot of fun Aug 2, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13b
Yes, Tin Man is definitely harder now. Jul 19, 2010
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
Did it screw up Tin Man also? All right, nobody over 165 lbs on my sport routes, please Jul 19, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.13b
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.13b
Some people have argued that now this route is "hard 13a" since the hold broke off. I think it is harder than that because the hold that broke was huge. It left behind a tweaky undercling and a definite crux. Before, the route was all about having the endurance to hang on. Now it seems to be about having both the endurance and the power to pull hard on that undercling. Methinks 13b. Jul 19, 2010
A key hold broke off today (the big pinch between the 4th and 5th bolts), so the climb is probably significantly harder now May 1, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
great description... Oct 3, 2007
M Sprague
New England
  5.13a/b
M Sprague   New England  
  5.13a/b
Dave Graham snagged the first ascent of the link up. Though I bolted it as my original intended line in this section, I found that what turned into Tin Man and Flying Monkeys were actually easier lines so I climbed them first. If you like steep, this makes a good intro 13a, especially with a kneepad on the left leg. Nov 9, 2006