Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Art Mooney 1992
Page Views: 5,057 total · 32/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start on good holds that slowly turn in to tiny
really fun moves and a good intro to the 5.12 grade. Very similar in a way to Weevil Knevil (5.12a) at New Wave in that the first crux is hard and the upper crux is technical and a little pumpy. If you like one try the other.

Crimps as you move past the 2nd bolt. Looks like there are a few ways to do this first crux. I stayed right on small crimps then moved left to the nice rest ledge once the holds got better. Take a break at the ledge or just keep on rockin as you head in to the more awkward and less crimpy section. Here you will make use of pinches and good laybacks as you move up and left through a groove to the chains.

Location

On the far right side of the cliff. The last route before the big wet chimney.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor

Photos