Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Art Mooney 1992
Page Views: 4,331 total · 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

69 Opinions

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Start on good holds that slowly turn in to tiny
really fun moves and a good intro to the 5.12 grade. Very similar in a way to Weevil Knevil (5.12a) at New Wave in that the first crux is hard and the upper crux is technical and a little pumpy. If you like one try the other.

Crimps as you move past the 2nd bolt. Looks like there are a few ways to do this first crux. I stayed right on small crimps then moved left to the nice rest ledge once the holds got better. Take a break at the ledge or just keep on rockin as you head in to the more awkward and less crimpy section. Here you will make use of pinches and good laybacks as you move up and left through a groove to the chains.


On the far right side of the cliff. The last route before the big wet chimney.


7 bolts to anchor


M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Take the rest on the ledge...the top is pumpy. This route is actually easier in bare feet I think.

There are two 12c pitches above that are very worth doing. If you continue above the Captain Hook Anchors a little bit you will see another set where you can clip in and pull your rope through the lower draws to reduce drag (and free up the route for others). Get back on belay and continue up. The upper left pitch is Peter Pan and the right one is Tinkerbell..both put up by Chris Smith. Tinkerbell can also be approached from purple Microdot Nov 26, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
i forgot to post this the other day but when i did the climb a week or 2 ago the lower bolt on the anchor was pulling out... i pushed it back in by hand... sketchy :/ Sep 22, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Dave recently replaced the bolts on this with SS glue-ins Oct 17, 2018