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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Art Mooney 1992
Page Views: 3,806 total, 31/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start on good holds that slowly turn in to tiny
really fun moves and a good intro to the 5.12 grade. Very similar in a way to Weevil Knevil (5.12a) at New Wave in that the first crux is hard and the upper crux is technical and a little pumpy. If you like one try the other.

Crimps as you move past the 2nd bolt. Looks like there are a few ways to do this first crux. I stayed right on small crimps then moved left to the nice rest ledge once the holds got better. Take a break at the ledge or just keep on rockin as you head in to the more awkward and less crimpy section. Here you will make use of pinches and good laybacks as you move up and left through a groove to the chains.

Location

On the far right side of the cliff. The last route before the big wet chimney.

Protection

7 bolts to anchor
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i forgot to post this the other day but when i did the climb a week or 2 ago the lower bolt on the anchor was pulling out... i pushed it back in by hand... sketchy :/ Sep 22, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Take the rest on the ledge...the top is pumpy. This route is actually easier in bare feet I think.

There are two 12c pitches above that are very worth doing. If you continue above the Captain Hook Anchors a little bit you will see another set where you can clip in and pull your rope through the lower draws to reduce drag (and free up the route for others). Get back on belay and continue up. The upper left pitch is Peter Pan and the right one is Tinkerbell..both put up by Chris Smith. Tinkerbell can also be approached from purple Microdot Nov 26, 2007