Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Chris Smith, August 1998
Page Views: 422 total · 3/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Very enjoyable, albeit brief, climbing up a swell with perfect incuts and a laughably fun, well-protected, foot-flailing dyno to cap off this route.

Like the neighboring "Sir Edmund Drillary", this short, fingery route is a great way to pass the time while waiting in line for the classic lines of Upper Orange Crush.

Location

The left-most route on Upper Orange Crush.

Protection

4 bolts and two bolt anchors.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i thought this was a pretty fun climb... way better than sir edmund drillery to the right... this had great movement and if it was more than a boulder problem i think it would be a classic... Sep 15, 2008
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
First Ascentionist - Chris Smith, August 1998

Fun, long, dynamic moves, at the top end of the cliff where there is usually a breeze and with a great view. Jul 21, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.11b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.11b/c
Yeah, I thought this is a nice climb in a scenic setting, just wish it were longer. Fun bouldery moves on a rope. Like Lee said, WAY better than the 11a to its right. Jul 21, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11c
Yeah gentlemen I agree with you if this was the top of a 70 foot climb it would be classic but it is a great route which I encourage everyone to get on! Jul 21, 2011
J Meagher
  5.11c
J Meagher  
  5.11c
Is this a reasonable route for a first 11c? Ive already done Little Big Man at main cliff, is this significantly harder/more intimidating? Sep 14, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.11b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.11b/c
Yes, almost a 1-move wonder. Will feel easy if you boulder often. Well bolted and short. Slight harder than The Snowman down at Monsters. It is also slightly harder than Little Big Man. Altho, I actually sent this one quicker than LBM. LBM is quite hard for me with a 5'5" wing span. Sep 14, 2013
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey LeCours   New Hampshire  
J Meagher: If I was looking for a first 11c I'd think about Apocalypse Later, Salley's Alley, High Roller, Ali Babbler (is "different" for rumney but AWESOME), Iron Man (has an exposed feel), Black Mamba.

Or push yourself a little harder with Pulse, Nicky's Crack, or The Crusher.

Also would be fun to check off the lower end of the 11 range: Tropicana, Know Ethics, Waimea, Lions Tigers & Bears, Buried Treasure, Prime Climb, Arm & Hammer, Sky Pilot, Bullwinkle Craters, Man w/ a Heuco. Sep 15, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
A dyno for the rest of us (mortals). Short and fun! May 23, 2016