Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jim Shimberg 09/2009
Page Views: 689 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ryan Web on Nov 14, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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8 Opinions

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Description

A very neglected route that has a pretty sweet assortment of moves that could benefit from some traffic and dry weather.

Start easily up a left leaning ramp. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts, about V6, and revolves around a deep drop knee and pretty bad crimps and underclings on the overhanging wall. A little bit of easy climbing leads to a crazy adventure up a sharp sloping fin between the 8th and 9th bolts. The route finishes with a few heady mantles and some moderate compression moves on blocky orange rock that could still spit you off if you let your guard down.

Location

Among the first few routes that you come upon when approaching orange crush. Between Buried Treasure and Captain Hook

Protection

12 bolts to LO

Photos

Ryan Web
  5.12d
Ryan Web  
  5.12d
I climbed this route today and gave it a good amount of cleaning and dusted chalk on all of the key holds. The route could benefit from a little bit more cleaning but is in good enough shape to climb now.

Also I didn't know who has the first ascent so if anyone knows let me know and i'll add it. Nov 14, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12d
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12d
Jim Shimberg, 09/2009 Nov 14, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
Good description! been waiting for the right moment to get after this one. Wishing i wasn't on injury break right now since you preped it! Nov 15, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I noticed today that the anchor is just bare eyebolts now, so it needs some quicklinks etc. on them so the bolts don't get worn. Nov 15, 2015
Ryan Web
  5.12d
Ryan Web  
  5.12d
Hey Mark, when I was up there I noticed two anchors, One that looks like the original anchors that were even in height to the anchors of Buried Treasure above the large birds nest,. That set of anchors was bare.
But I noticed (and used) a set of anchors about 6 feet lower and to the right that avoided walking through the birds nest and large plant that I think had rap rings on them. I will have to go check again tho because to be honest after climbing and ground up cleaning the route on lead I was just happy to clip any anchors haha.
When I go back to finish cleaning in the next week or so and see that the anchors need quick-clips or rams horns I will do my best to add them as quickly as possible Nov 16, 2015
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
OK, Thanks Ryan. Good to know. I could only see the upper ones from where I was. Thanks for the clean-up etc. I remember it being a good route and am surprised it doesn't get more traffic. I remember a shoebox sized quartz block that I used to gingerly step on at the transition to the upper face that may need a looking at if still there. Nov 16, 2015
not monkey
Boston, MA
not monkey   Boston, MA
I'm hoping to get some help on beta with this. I got on this yesterday and pumped out at the top when it felt like I just ran out of holds.
I may have gone off route, after rocking over to the right of the sharp arete onto a slab I walked up the awkward slab to some big holds. Just above me is a bolt without a project draw in it and I started moving up and to the right of the bolt line and ran it out to the next draw.

I think I ended up one draw higher where I fell. I had a far right hand sidepull and some crimps low to my left, and a blocky thing near my left side that had a decent left sidepull, but that hold didn't help me get my right hand on anything more useful.

Any help or thoughts of how it was for someone else up top are highly appreciated! Where I was hanging I could see what I assume is the last bolt (glue in) and what I assume are the old anchors that I've seen in the comments. Oct 21, 2018