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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Bradley White and Bill Hardigan, early '80s
Page Views: 3,659 total, 29/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Aug 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

I really like this route, it appears to be a mossy, easy climb from the ground, and it is, but it really has some interesting moves for the grade and a great flow. Also, it's clean where you will be climbing so you can avoid the lichen. It's fun to set up a TR for a new climber and then to see if you can clean it in under a minute.

It starts from the big boulder at the bottom of the clif, beginning down near and just left of the start of the Bullwinkle climbs, up the boulder and on to the tall slabby face, angling left to the top corner, and then back right to the anchors. Fun face climbing.

Location

The bottom right of the Orange Crush clif, on the wall which is purpendicular to the rest of the clif. Just to the right of Purple Microdot, starting off of a large boulder on the ground.

Protection

10 bolts to the anchors. Belay and start just left of the Bullwinkle routes, heading up the big boulder then stepping onto the slabby face.
Watch the end of your rope when lowering!
M Sprague
New England
  5.6
M Sprague   New England  
  5.6
Pretty much a full half rope (60m) length, especially starting on the low side of the boulder, as people do now. Knot the end of your rope. Jan 7, 2015
Kurt G.
Reading, PA
Kurt G.   Reading, PA
anyone have an idea how tall this route is? Jan 7, 2015
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.6
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.6
Warning: very long and boring video- youtube.com/watch?v=w-4aPv9… Apr 26, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
  5.6
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
  5.6
Got on this today, a tad wet at the top at the crux, but it was certainly a fun climb. Apr 21, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
"Bill Hardigan and I did the climb in the early 80's. The top off into Blueberry bushes was the hardest part."

Comment by bradley white on July 13th, 2008 4:56 am Jul 20, 2012
nataliejwong
Toronto, Canada
  5.6
nataliejwong   Toronto, Canada
  5.6
I climbed over the boulder where there's a big scary hole, but I think I was suppose to start from the base of the boulder to make my way up to the first bolt. It was difficult to clip the second last draw that's right before the blueberry bush. Didn't have enough reach. That's probably the crux of the route. Overall, good route (5.6ish), and amazing view when you reach the very top of the climb. Aug 29, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.6
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.6
there is actually 9 bolts on this awesome route, the crux is at the last bolt and is deceptive, I don't believe it is 5.5 but maybe once you figure the move out it is, either way a really fun climb Sep 1, 2009
M Sprague
New England
  5.6
M Sprague   New England  
  5.6
It is good to belay from down right towards Bullwinkle as you suggest. When it was last retroed the bolts were placed for that approach and you no longer have to clip in to avoid being pulled into the hole. FA was by Bradley White and partner. Nov 26, 2007