Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ward Smith 1998
Page Views: 8,260 total · 65/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2008 with updates from Daniel Kaye
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Possibly the most classic hard 11 at Rumney? You be the judge. While you are climbing this route, remember that it's been climbed barefoot!

This route has multiple sections of hard climbing, all of which offer very unique flow over stunning rock features with eye-popping exposure.

Start this affair on a slab of rock below the steep trail that heads to upper Orange Crush, beneath the roof capping a left-facing corner.

Reach over the void, clip the first bolt and easily traverse over to the corner. Make technical (but not physically difficult) moves rightward across the face to gain the arete, and a stance.

Step back onto the arete, master this, then tackle the steep, but short face with stout, fingery moves, high feet, and an interesting reach to the looming edge of the overhang above. Pull over the bulge and gain the nice ledge shared with multiple other routes.

Move back left onto the upper face and climb through some steep rock on positive holds to an easy mantle, depositing you at comfortable stance at the base of the crux.

(Get a good shake, as the climbing above is sustained, and is considered the techinical crux of the route.)

Delicately move up the slabby face to a very distinct India-shaped hold. Figure out how to utilize it, move past it, then gain the upper left-facing corner for the remaining, pumpy climbing to the anchors.

Location

On the approach trail/ladder to the upper Orange Crush. The Crusher starts on a slab behind some small boulders beneath the large roof cappping the left-facing corner.

Protection

13 bolts and chains. Long Runners and back-cleaning are helpful on some of the first bolts.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
FA/98 Ward Smith..a killer route.. one of the best hard 11s at Rumney IMO Feb 11, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11d
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11d
This thing is HARD! super fun and interesting... i would not cry sandbag but this is as hard as i can call 11d you must earn it for sure! May 26, 2010
Derek Jf
Northeast
  5.11d
Derek Jf   Northeast
  5.11d
THIS is move-for-move the best pitch of climbing of the 11s. I had seen the spray on the Black Mamba comment section with arguments supporting BM as the best 11, while others gave note to this route. This lives up to the hype. The Crusher is an amazing route! - most interesting & consistent hard moves the whole way Oct 13, 2015
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
One of the very best climbs I've ever done. It stays dry and mostly sunny into the Winter, I had a blast working this one in 30 degree temps with the sun shining. Cleaning the draws from the opening corner on descent is a major pain in the ass, and top-roping it is just as bad. If you are comfortable at the grade you might consider reaching down and back-cleaning all of your draws after you clip the following one until you are past "the move" at the top of the opening corner so you don't have to deal with those draws after. Do not un-tram your harness from your belayer after cleaning the last draw or you're going for a huge ride, possibly into a tree. The belayer needs to be anchored in and there is a convenient belay bolt. Dec 4, 2017