Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ted Hammond and Bob Pike '84
Page Views: 3,551 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Aug 22, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


106 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start right of the wet corner to a tricky overlap then continue up a few hard sequences to the super featured crack above.

sunglasses or a cloudy day recommended for the moves over the first overlap.. unless you like staring into the sun

Location

Bolted line just right of the wet streak of Prime Climb

Protection

11-12 bolts. Has it's own anchors now also. 60m Rope might still be needed.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
The crack is fun. Of it, I say "a crack even sport climbers will like/love to climb through" Good rock. Sep 10, 2017
J Meagher
  5.11c
J Meagher  
  5.11c
I would highly recommend using a quickdraw with locking carabiners on the 4th bolt. I fell at the first roof today and had the bolt side carabiner come open from being scraped against the rock during the fall. Jul 20, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
A balancey high step, a classic layback, crimps to a sideways throw for a bucket (crux), a tenuous slabby traverse, an honest-to-God hand crack at Rumney . . . this climb has it all. Sep 27, 2015
WillK  
Tried it twice over the wkend and was surprised to find that water had seeped and soaked the crucial crimp at the upper crux. I didn't think it had rained here recently. Not sure why I tried it again after I found some water the first time, but it only got worse overnight haha. I was still able to pull crux after several attempts, but it was a pain and I'd bring a bail biner just in case.

Also, a friend found a solid knee bar in that lay back section before upper crux. I couldn't really find it myself, but there's potential for no-hands rest after that pumpy section. May 26, 2015
Ming
  5.11b
Ming  
  5.11b
Fantastic climb for sure. Great for breaking into the mid 11s at Rumney. It is like 3 different routes stacked on top of each other. First part is basic 5.9 face climbing. Pull the roof then up to the crack. Short people like me lay back on the sidepull while taller people can get decent feet on out right. The second crux is a hard pull up from the crimp up the slab and get established. It finishes with an easy 10ish crack that you can jam securely while having enough features on the face for your feet. Superb route! Oct 12, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Uh oh, Hannah. Now they will remember you for years.
newscientist.com/article/dn… Jun 29, 2011
I distinctly remember one day climbing this route and a bird attacking me as I clipped the chains. I think I squacked the rest of the day about horrible birds..... Jun 29, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
At least the top. Ted and Brady retroed it later. I may have replaced one or two of the lower bolts that were getting funky. Jun 28, 2011
S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
Mark, was the FA done mostly on trad gear? And reto-bolted later? Jun 28, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Ravens often build their nest directly above the anchor, so if you didn't notice them until you got there, they may freak the liver out of you. It's best to avoid in the spring when they are there and making a fuss, or at least be discrete as you approach the top and lower quickly and quietly away. Jun 28, 2011
I really love this climb - varied movement, cool rock and a perfect hand crack at top to boot. Out of the three 11bs right in a row I think this one is the best. Apr 3, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Jake... the sun moves, so im not too worried about that part, haha... however i think this route is worth a bit more description...

You climb easier 5.9ish rock to the roof about 20-25 feet up, this would be the lower crux... Awkward moves over the roof lead to a good stance... Above are 2 more bulges, the first one isnt bad but steals a little energy and getting past the second one is a bit of a pumpy afair... Climb some sidepulls then make a move left and mentel up on to a slabby stance... Here you can move right in to the crack which for me was a wonderful thing since i was a bit pumped cause i could still jam... climb the crack to the chains...

there were a few loose holds but the dirtyness that was mentioned in the guide book is gone and the rock is nice and clean... Sep 15, 2008