Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mark Sprague - Sept /97
Page Views: 803 total · 9/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jun 9, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a left hand alternative start to Black Mamba that shares the same start as Anaconda Da-vida and King Cobra. Stick clip the first bolt or at least get a good spot as the very beginning can be tenuous, with a not so good landing. Mantel over the low roof to a shake, then tackle a bouldery crux to get situated on the lower part of the face. This was about 12a, but a hold broke, bumping it up a little. Remembering a left toe hook may come in handy to control the barndoor as you pop to a good sidepull with your left. A couple more moves will get you up to the seam that heads off left as Anaconda. At this point White Snake diverges from the other two routes by working to the right and up thin face holds, connecting into Black Mamba just under the roof. Be sure to use a shoulder length sling under the roof or you will get drag at the top.

This linkup offers varied, quality climbing and bumps the grade up a bit for when you have already done lots of runs on Mamba and have it wired to death.

Location

Starts on the shared bolt line just to the left of Black Mamba

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Bring a 2 foot sling for under the roof of Black Mamba and maybe a few long draws to reduce drag.

60 meter rope needed to lower. Watch the end while belaying, or better yet tie in.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
ive been wanting to try this forever but the top is ALWAYS wet :( Jun 9, 2011
S. Neoh  
Lee, you might have to wait till the Fall to get on. I have seen it dry then.
I did not realize you had the FA, Mark. No, I have not read every page of Ward's guide. :) Jun 9, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
yeah, i should have done it the same day i did black mamba but even when it was "dry" there were wet spots... oh well, some day... Jun 9, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
Finally did it! perfect conditions! Bone dry and quite climbing nice :) Sep 28, 2013