Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Paula King 5/2001
Page Views: 926 total · 15/month
Shared By: Eric Leclerc on Jun 2, 2014
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

This route is for you if you like boulder problems with a huge rest in between.
You can start the climb by clipping the first draw of Tropicana and then fork right to get below the roof where the business starts. Once you clip the bolt in the roof, you should unclip the first one to reduce drag. The exit of the roof involves long powerful moves with a super interesting boulder sequence. Once you figure it out, it feels quite easy. Then use good holds to get to the forever rest if needed. The second roof/bulge is more tricky. You need more finger strength than the problem below. One hard dead point to a small hold and if you can pull this one move, it's just a little hike to the anchor. The route stays dry most of the time.
The only down side to this route is its sharpness for the rope.

Location

You never see a line-up to climb this route. It's between the routes on the right that are always wet and the routes on the left that everyone wants to climb (Tropicana, Predator, Vaporizer and Crusher).

Protection

8 bolts. Use two slings below the first roof and one below the second. Better if cleaned seconding. Don't use your brand new rope like I did.

Photos

Ladd Raine    
The first 4 bolts of this climb is easily linked into Tropicana, making for an interesting 12a that relies on body position and aim. Very fun. Jul 23, 2014
Will McFarland
Rumney, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Rumney, NH
  5.12d
The 2nd crux for this route is very hard for a 5.12. If not for the ledge rest before it, this route would be 5.13. There are a few hold on the lower crux that are like loose teeth. Jun 16, 2015