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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mr. Ed Esmond, August 1998
Page Views: 460 total, 4/month
Shared By: James Otey on May 28, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Residing on the far left of Orange Crush, Sir Edmond Drillary starts on the large boulder left of Orangahang. Stick clip from here, as a fall would certainly not be in your best interest.

Start left of the first bolt, eventually reaching a small roof. Traverse slightly right, skirting the roof. After some pumpy moves on decent holds, you will be able to gain a rest in the corner. From here, the route traverses out left and eventually up were the chains will be waiting for you.

Though the moves can be a little pumpy near the bottom, the route is short and the rests are solid if you can get them just right. Not a classic, but surely worth your time.

Location

Far left of Orange Crush, starting on the huge boulder above and to the left of Orangahang. Approach from either the main trail at the second parking lot, or head up and right from Bonsai.

Protection

5 bolts to LO.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.11a/b
S. Neoh  
  5.11a/b
Agree with above post! Def get a second to follow and clean the gear off this route. Real PITA to clean on lower. Not only that, if memory serves, rope abrasion is also an issue when down cleaning. Sep 5, 2017
Franck Vee
  5.11-
Franck Vee  
  5.11-
I found it ok but not outstanding. It's essentially a roped boulder problem - it really has about 12 moves until you pull the roof and then it's pretty much over.

Felt stiff for 11a, but then bouldering isn't my forte and I'm only ok in steep steep stuff like that, so it's probably just a style thing.

The moves it does have however are fun. Even about the roof - the moves are easy but interesting.

Cleaning that is a bit of a bitch - probably want to clean on the second... Sep 5, 2017
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Wait a minute Eli . . . Did you say there's something "wonky" on an Ed Esmond route? Impossible! Never! May 23, 2016
Eli
Lives in a truck
 
Eli   Lives in a truck
 
I think this is a better route than it gets credit for, however it is far overshadowed by all the other great routes around. The bolt placements on this feel a little wonky to clip vs how it climbs, probably better to have someone second it for cleaning as well. Sep 13, 2015
Lundy Bancroft  
5.11a
I'm not sure what you mean about "skirting the roof". After clipping the bolt in the roof, you traverse under the roof for just a few moves until the little notch, and that's where you pull it. If you move too far right before pulling the roof, you'll find that once you're up and over it the next bolt is too far to your left (this happened to a friend of mine). This is a very cool climb by the way, underrated. Oct 21, 2013
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
First ascentionist - Sir Ed Esmond, August 1998

This route seems to be getting much better with traffic. When he first put it up, it was " Ooh, ow, ow, how, wow, ow " Jul 21, 2011
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Good Route, worth doing, can be a great warm up for Orang. Jul 20, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
this one seems likely to eat your rope... the rope runs right over the edge of the roof... that wouldnt happen if you linked it in to the orangahang finish... if i do the route again i might try that... Sep 15, 2008