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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond5/99
Page Views: 2,479 total, 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

An awkward 5.10 crux on top of a very moderate approach cruse. not a bad route but not super memorable. The start is often wet.

Start up just right of and almost in the wet chimney following bolts out on to the face and up to the imposing roof feature. This part involves lots of route finding mixed with technical foot work and some power. So come ready with your full bag of tricks. Stay right as you come over the roof then make somewhat scary yet safe moves left to a bolt and a good stance. A few more moves lead to a great jug to mantel on to a comfortable ledge where you can clip the chains.

Location

On the far right side of the cliff. The first route right of the big nasty wet chimney.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors. you may need a 60m rope its a pretty long route.
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
I'm glad to learn about the "scary" bolts AFTER I did the climb. I found that I was constantly reaching up blindly and hoping to find something. I was too focused (i.e. unnerved) to notice the condition of the bolts. Aug 19, 2015
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Onsighted this one today. Started up Orange Sunshine then traversed left. Super fun. I second Lee. There are some scary bolts on this. Jul 13, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
To whom it may concern, some of the bolts are in scary shape... Jun 15, 2014
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
I briefly tried to go straight over the first roof; much, much harder. I then escaped right as Mark suggested. This route felt almost as hard as P2 of Tropicana to me and harder than Citrasolve. That "fin" hold befuddled me to no end and I ended up crimping left and right to get past it.
Given 5.10a in Ward's Guide. Not in my book. :( Just saying. Sep 22, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Continue going up the slab for a bit. Don't try to go directly up the roof, or you will be making it much harder. Then you will be reaching out to a big sidepull with your left as you traverse out over the roof Aug 30, 2010
Jeremy Corson
Northwood, New Hampshire
 
Jeremy Corson   Northwood, New Hampshire
 
I just did this route and if you can fill me in on the beta to overcome the first roof portion it would be pretty enjoyable. The rest of the upper portion of this route is pretty nice. Aug 30, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just did this again in hopes of finding better beta and making it a more fun route since its a convenient warm up for the harder routes on the wall... figured out better feel and had more fun :) May 25, 2010