Type: Sport
FA: Ed Esmond5/99
Page Views: 2,806 total · 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


64 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

An awkward 5.10 crux on top of a very moderate approach cruse. not a bad route but not super memorable. The start is often wet.

Start up just right of and almost in the wet chimney following bolts out on to the face and up to the imposing roof feature. This part involves lots of route finding mixed with technical foot work and some power. So come ready with your full bag of tricks. Stay right as you come over the roof then make somewhat scary yet safe moves left to a bolt and a good stance. A few more moves lead to a great jug to mantel on to a comfortable ledge where you can clip the chains.

Location

On the far right side of the cliff. The first route right of the big nasty wet chimney.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors. you may need a 60m rope its a pretty long route.

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10b
just did this again in hopes of finding better beta and making it a more fun route since its a convenient warm up for the harder routes on the wall... figured out better feel and had more fun :) May 25, 2010
Jeremy Corson
Northwood, New Hampshire
 
Jeremy Corson   Northwood, New Hampshire
 
I just did this route and if you can fill me in on the beta to overcome the first roof portion it would be pretty enjoyable. The rest of the upper portion of this route is pretty nice. Aug 30, 2010
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Continue going up the slab for a bit. Don't try to go directly up the roof, or you will be making it much harder. Then you will be reaching out to a big sidepull with your left as you traverse out over the roof Aug 30, 2010
S. Neoh
  5.10c
S. Neoh  
  5.10c
I briefly tried to go straight over the first roof; much, much harder. I then escaped right as Mark suggested. This route felt almost as hard as P2 of Tropicana to me and harder than Citrasolve. That "fin" hold befuddled me to no end and I ended up crimping left and right to get past it.
Given 5.10a in Ward's Guide. Not in my book. :( Just saying. Sep 22, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.10b
To whom it may concern, some of the bolts are in scary shape... Jun 15, 2014
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
Onsighted this one today. Started up Orange Sunshine then traversed left. Super fun. I second Lee. There are some scary bolts on this. Jul 13, 2014
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
I'm glad to learn about the "scary" bolts AFTER I did the climb. I found that I was constantly reaching up blindly and hoping to find something. I was too focused (i.e. unnerved) to notice the condition of the bolts. Aug 19, 2015
Bobby Mustard
  5.10b
Bobby Mustard  
  5.10b
These bolts are in bad shape, and also probably should be moved to reduce drag. As of right now this route is spidery and adventurous. Aug 28, 2018