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Oh My! finish
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 169
votes
Routes in Orange Crush
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Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Opportunist, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Orangahang S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Crush (historical) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Orange Crush | 5271 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tin Monkeys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 43.80293, -71.83513 |
| FA: | M Sprague4/98 |
| Page Views: | 5,734 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Hansche on Sep 27, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A killer way to finish Lions and Tigers and Bears. It adds a little exposure and a little difficulty and it follows a more natural line.
Start as for LT+B taking the same measures to avoid rope drag. As you finish the rightward traverse rather than switching direction and heading left on the original route continue slightly right and into a nice corner following big flakes up the corner until its possible to get a stance before pulling a few more moves to the chains.
Highly recommended for sure. This finish is the way to go.
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