Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Ward Smith, 1998
Page Views: 39,517 total · 272/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Nov 8, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


52 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.

The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.

Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).

After getting a vote of confidence from your belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.

This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jtrg4VaeHCs&feature=plcp

Protection

Bolts. Draws are fixed. On redpoint attempts, a climber usually clips every other draw on the prow. The fall is the definition of clean.

A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.

Photos

Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
My dream route that I hope to conquer (I think that's how you spell it) this summer! Wish me luck! Mar 28, 2007
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
Good luck, Mike.... I have faith.... Mar 29, 2007
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
"The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look at yourself in the mirror in the morning."

Love it. Nov 6, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
youtube.com/watch?v=rtu5cIY…

i found this video on the youtube... a bit shaky but shows the moves well... Nov 19, 2009
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
I thought I saw black climbtech draws on the prow a couple months ago, but when I went last weekend the old tatt was back. Some of those biners were deeply grooved, and this route gets a lot of hangdogging - were the permadraws removed? if so, why? Oct 21, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
I once thought that it could never live up to it's reputation... it sounded like too much hype... i waited for a long time before trying it, maybe not wanting to be let down if it didnt live up to all that considerable hype... well, i climbing on it over the last 3 weeks, and sent it today... lets just say ive climbed A LOT of routes and this is hands down my favorite! i give it 5 stars out of four! if you make a list of reasons you'd like to climb 5.13 the top of the list should look like this...

1.PREDATOR!!!!! Nov 12, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
this shows a few goes on this amazing route leading to my send and a nice little back flip for celebration :)
youtube.com/watch?v=jtrg4Va… Nov 13, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Ha Lee clearly it was the clothes holding you back. If you take your pants off, you'll probly send China Beach next weekend.... if you can find someone to belay you. Nov 13, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.13b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.13b
everyone knows you climb harder without a shirt haha... and ill try to find a slow day and dedicated belayer to test your theory haha... Nov 13, 2012
Keyan P
Seattle, WA
Keyan P   Seattle, WA
I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off? Oct 25, 2013
Jay Conway, making it look easy
youtu.be/cWZpP2ncYNQ May 30, 2014
Will Ryan
New England
Will Ryan   New England
When was the last time the draws were replaced? Aug 31, 2017
Ryan Edwards
Los Angeles, CA
  5.13b
Ryan Edwards   Los Angeles, CA
  5.13b
Sent this back in June and it's still without a doubt the best route I've ever done. I don't know if it can be beat. Sep 20, 2018

More About Predator

Printer-Friendly