Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Sprague, 2004
Page Views: 2,246 total · 20/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Nov 11, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

A cool moderate addition to the cliff. Very technical in parts and a little pumpy for its short length. I feel like it will end up being a popular warm up for the 5.11s near by.

Start by stemming up between the main wall and the huge boulder that forms a corner. When the corner runs out make crimpy moves up to gain a crack that heads up and left. Follow the crack (not as good as it looks for the most part) while figuring out the tricky beta through this cruxy section. After the crack ends another 15 feet of technical climbing will bring you to the anchors.

Location

To the left of Tropicana 5.11a, it basicly starts at the base of the ladder/stairs. Follow the bolts up the corner to start.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

S. Neoh
  5.10b/c
S. Neoh  
  5.10b/c
Quite enjoyable. Get on it! Sep 22, 2012
Zane Dordai
Salt Lake City
 
Zane Dordai   Salt Lake City
 
consistent, pumpy climbing on pretty good rock, worthy of more stars in my opinion. Jun 7, 2013
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.10c
"Tricky beta" is right. Don't follow right up the bolt line. If you're a 5.10 climber, you've got to figure this one out. The best line is elusive. Sep 6, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.10c
Franck Vee  
  5.10c
Super fun. Actually both easy routes below that ledge are interesting. Sep 5, 2017