Type: Sport
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 2,611 total · 19/month
Shared By: BrianWinslow on Aug 21, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

The route climbs the arete to the right of Black Mamba, near the middle-bottom right of the crag. It's crimpy, powerful, technical, and balancy, depending on how you go about it. I like to clip the second bolt, as there is a tough move above the first and I am affraid of hitting the deck, but it is a little bit high and hard to reach with a stick clip, so bring a long stick. If your stick is somewhat inadequate (hehe) it's pretty easy to clip the bolt if you traverse from the left (start of Black Mamba) but I feel that you would need to lower off to do the opening moves.

After climbing past the first two bolts, mantel onto a good ledge, then the arete eases up a bit. Soon it gets steeper, and more technical. Reach the wet hold on the right, hopefully not after much rain and not in the moss, then follow the bolts to the left of the messy broken rock and back right to the Lower Offs.

Location

The arete to the right of Black Mamba. The climb starts from the left side of the relatively flat ground on the bottom right of the clif (I hope that makes sense.)

Protection

13 bolts (long stick clip or traverse recommended for the first bolt.)

Photos

E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
" I like to clip the second bolt, as there is a tough move above the first and I am affraid of hitting the deck, but it is a little bit high and hard to reach with a stick clip, so bring a long stick"

I did not find any of the moves in the first 2 or 3 bolts to be that hard and I whipped all over the upper crux of this, so do not let this scare you away. Jun 11, 2009
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.11b
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.11b
Pleasantly deceptive. The slabby arete looks innocuous from the ground but contains some tricky moves and you can climb yourself into some irreversible situations if you don't think a few moves ahead. Sep 15, 2010
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Where is "the wet hold on the right"?

At the very top of the arete, right before the platform that you can stand up on, I was stymied. The next bolt was right in my face, but I wasn't sure where to go from there. Is this the "wet hold on the right" place? Another climber told me that he reached way over to the left. I didn't know what to do (except downclimb or fall!). Oct 19, 2015