Type: Sport
FA: M Sprague 10/97
Page Views: 6,411 total · 45/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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This is a classic wandering line up the weakness in the left side of the cliff. Due to its positioning and line of travel after climbing 20 feet you are way in to the exposed zone and it just gets better as you go.

From a decent stance clip the first bolt (not fixed at the moment) an inconsequential pull gets you clipped in to a fixed permadraw (you may choose to back-clean your own first draw at this point). Start up the nice steep wall playing find-the-jugs. Move right around a corner awkwardly to a stance (harder for shorties). At this point you want to travers right under a steep wall and as you head right and the ground below falls away you feel way exposed. This traverse is scrunchy and yes harder for tall people (evening the score of difficulty for the route). At the end of the traverse you can milk an amazing airy rest stance before entering the money section of the climb, steep hauling on fantasy jugs that just don't end if you choose the traditional finish traversing back left following the weakness to the anchors. Or at a slightly harder grade and more exposure try the Oh My! finish (5.11b/c). Either way you finish it this is such an enjoyable climb. There are currently fixed draws all the way so there's no good reason not to take a spin on it.


Start at a 2 bolt anchor just down from the orangahang belay bolt.


12 bolts to anchor. 60m rope.


watch out for the spiders!!! I cleaned a big web off last weekend Jul 13, 2009
twellman   Cambridge
Where do you belay from? The double eyebolt anchor below orangahang? Or the bottom of the slab? Apr 28, 2010
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Usually at the belay below the one for Orangahang. It is a bit of a cluster up there, so best to try to do it when others aren't also trying to get on the other routes unless you all can come to a civil arrangement Apr 28, 2010
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
Amazing Route! One of the best 5.11's in Rumney! Thanks Mark. Jul 26, 2011
I've seen people take huge wippers on that route by skipping the last few bolts. They told me you could fall under your belayer and hit nothing but air.

I'm pretty sure some local could pour more info out here on that so that people don't go all out crazy and get hurt :) Jun 17, 2013
Are there pre-hung draws on this route? Sep 14, 2013
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Both finishes are fixed in their entirety with permadraws. Sep 15, 2013
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
Amazing route...I did the Oh My finish but I'll be back for the original!

This is one route that benefits from a little logistical planning.

I liked the belay from way down on the ledge in the middle of the slab, some 20' below the first bolt. (You could do the Orangahang belay but a light belayer may get pulled out into space.) The climber can then walk up to the start, trailing the rope. Use a 60m rope especially if you do Oh My.

Also, after some annoying futzing around with trying to clip low-hanging draws and back-clean... next time I plan to skip the first draw and stick-clip the second, and then back-clean it if possible. I would also skip or back clean the "third" draw (on Dyno-Soar). Jun 22, 2015
Bobby Mustard
Bobby Mustard  
Note: the rope drag can get pretty heinous at the end of this one. Sep 13, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
I tend to go up and tag the anchor then down climb and unclip a couple draws before lowering off... this reduces the drag a lot :) Sep 13, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
After the start moves and you're around the corner, (and before you get to the sinker jugs on the traverse) there's a dicey, super balancey section. The rest is just a pumpathon (at least for the 5.10 climber). Oct 19, 2015
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
Someone broke one of the starting jugs off the ledge so that you can get around the corner. Makes the start of Lions, Tigers, Bears and Flying Monkeys a little more tricky and pumpy. The broken hold is stashed off the left under Orangahang/Tin Man start. Jul 31, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
For what it's worth: I noticed no difference in difficulty but I did have to choose a new left hand hold to start. To be clear the missing hold is when your feet are still on or near the ground, the moves around the corner seemed exactly the same. Still a great start to a great 5.11, and/or a "moderate" intro to the harder stuff that shares this start. Aug 4, 2016
Owen Wilkins
Owen Wilkins  
awesome route, the quick clips at the anchor are looking very worn though (deep incuts where the rope runs through the curve of the biner). the left one was also worn a lot more than the right as the anchor doesn't seem to be well equalized Sep 21, 2017