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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: M Sprague 10/97
Page Views: 5,720 total, 46/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a classic wandering line up the weakness in the left side of the cliff. Due to its positioning and line of travel after climbing 20 feet you are way in to the exposed zone and it just gets better as you go.

From a decent stance clip the first bolt (not fixed at the moment) an inconsequential pull gets you clipped in to a fixed permadraw (you may choose to back-clean your own first draw at this point). Start up the nice steep wall playing find-the-jugs. Move right around a corner awkwardly to a stance (harder for shorties). At this point you want to travers right under a steep wall and as you head right and the ground below falls away you feel way exposed. This traverse is scrunchy and yes harder for tall people (evening the score of difficulty for the route). At the end of the traverse you can milk an amazing airy rest stance before entering the money section of the climb, steep hauling on fantasy jugs that just don't end if you choose the traditional finish traversing back left following the weakness to the anchors. Or at a slightly harder grade and more exposure try the Oh My! finish (5.11b/c). Either way you finish it this is such an enjoyable climb. There are currently fixed draws all the way so there's no good reason not to take a spin on it.

Location

Start at a 2 bolt anchor just down from the orangahang belay bolt.

Protection

12 bolts to anchor. 60m rope.

Photos

Owen Wilkins
  5.11b
Owen Wilkins  
  5.11b
awesome route, the quick clips at the anchor are looking very worn though (deep incuts where the rope runs through the curve of the biner). the left one was also worn a lot more than the right as the anchor doesn't seem to be well equalized Sep 21, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
For what it's worth: I noticed no difference in difficulty but I did have to choose a new left hand hold to start. To be clear the missing hold is when your feet are still on or near the ground, the moves around the corner seemed exactly the same. Still a great start to a great 5.11, and/or a "moderate" intro to the harder stuff that shares this start. Aug 4, 2016
Zach Swanson
Newton, MA
 
Zach Swanson   Newton, MA
 
Someone broke one of the starting jugs off the ledge so that you can get around the corner. Makes the start of Lions, Tigers, Bears and Flying Monkeys a little more tricky and pumpy. The broken hold is stashed off the left under Orangahang/Tin Man start. Jul 31, 2016
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11b
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
  5.11b
After the start moves and you're around the corner, (and before you get to the sinker jugs on the traverse) there's a dicey, super balancey section. The rest is just a pumpathon (at least for the 5.10 climber). Oct 19, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I tend to go up and tag the anchor then down climb and unclip a couple draws before lowering off... this reduces the drag a lot :) Sep 13, 2015
Eli
Lives in a truck
  5.11-
Eli   Lives in a truck
  5.11-
Note: the rope drag can get pretty heinous at the end of this one. Sep 13, 2015
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Amazing route...I did the Oh My finish but I'll be back for the original!

This is one route that benefits from a little logistical planning.

I liked the belay from way down on the ledge in the middle of the slab, some 20' below the first bolt. (You could do the Orangahang belay but a light belayer may get pulled out into space.) The climber can then walk up to the start, trailing the rope. Use a 60m rope especially if you do Oh My.

Also, after some annoying futzing around with trying to clip low-hanging draws and back-clean... next time I plan to skip the first draw and stick-clip the second, and then back-clean it if possible. I would also skip or back clean the "third" draw (on Dyno-Soar). Jun 22, 2015
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
Both finishes are fixed in their entirety with permadraws. Sep 15, 2013
Are there pre-hung draws on this route? Sep 14, 2013
I've seen people take huge wippers on that route by skipping the last few bolts. They told me you could fall under your belayer and hit nothing but air.

I'm pretty sure some local could pour more info out here on that so that people don't go all out crazy and get hurt :) Jun 17, 2013
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
Amazing Route! One of the best 5.11's in Rumney! Thanks Mark. Jul 26, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Usually at the belay below the one for Orangahang. It is a bit of a cluster up there, so best to try to do it when others aren't also trying to get on the other routes unless you all can come to a civil arrangement Apr 28, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
twellman   Cambridge
Where do you belay from? The double eyebolt anchor below orangahang? Or the bottom of the slab? Apr 28, 2010
watch out for the spiders!!! I cleaned a big web off last weekend Jul 13, 2009