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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 6,478 total, 57/month
Shared By: seth hamel on Aug 29, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

What can be said about dynosoar? Big moves. Big holds. Start off as for Flying monkeys and break right and up (don't go straight out right, that is Lions, Tigers, and Bears ). Climb the facey section of Flying Monkeys and then get into a roof with big holds. Pull 4 big moves and prepare for a hard move off of pinch, then followed by a dyno after clipping, follow big jugs to the top. Lots of fun, enjoy the pump factor.

Location

The upper left tier of the crag. You can belay off the same ledge used for Orangahang, or you can belay from beneath the slab.

Protection

Permi-draws.... around 8 bolts to LO.
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.13a
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.13a
Best 13a at Rumney, unless you think Predator is a 13a. Jul 18, 2017
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
Agree the new climbtechs are harder to grab... but I think it was worth it for the safety factor. Maybe next time I'll bring a few draws just for pulling on. Very low-impact - they disappear in a sea of tatt. Oct 21, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
All right. I agree with the need to keep the star inflation down for the ratings to have any meaning. I have been trying to do the same myself. One star for that route was just so far out of the norm from any other opinions that I have heard. I could see 3, or 2 if the bottom didn't do a lot for you, but 1 put it in the ranks of some pretty so so routes. Different strokes... I wasn't as miffed as I made it sound, more just impulsively commenting on a hot muggy day. It is funny to see how different people rate different routes.

..and no Christmas card from me, calling my dog ugly. Aug 8, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.13a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.13a
Jeez Mark, I don't think my insignificant opinion is worth a 'WTF'....(said with a smile).

Let me explain. One day I looked through my star ratings and I realized that I was giving virtually every route 3-4 stars, mostly because I have fun on almost everything. However, that policy doesn't help differentiate between absolute classics and routes that are just okay. A one star route doesn't mean the route is not good, it just isn't amazing. Though I have not climbed extensively at Rumney, let me use a couple climbs there as an example. I thought Beat Junkie was freaking superb (soooo good); 4 stars at any crag. I really enjoyed Great White because I really like technical vertical climbing; good route, but not long enough to be classic...3 stars. Tin Monkeys was fun, but none of the climbing was super memorable; however, the route is long and it was pretty fun...2 stars. Now this leaves me with Dynosaur. I thought the first 2/3 of the route (i.e. getting to the rest below the crux) were a big shrug. You then climb a boulder problem and clip the anchors. Now, the boulder problem is fun, but its pretty short and that means the bulk of the good climbing is like 20 feet long. Thus, because I think Tin Monkeys was better, I can only justify one star. I think my opinion of the route is exactly what MP defines one star as: okay. Aug 8, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I'm glad the old tat got taken out. Thanks.

Somebody didn't like this route. One star?? WTF? :)) Aug 8, 2011
Rajiv Ayyangar
Portland, ME
Rajiv Ayyangar   Portland, ME
Permadraws were long overdue on this route. Glad to see it. Aug 8, 2011
stow  
The 4 old fixed draws on Dyno-soar replaced by black-tubed Climb-Tech steel cable permadraws May 12, 2011. This should improve the safety on this route - the fixed draws were in bad shape - but be aware the new draws are harder to grab when working the route. May 15, 2011
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire