Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris Smith, May 1998
Page Views: 4,566 total · 43/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

An amazing long and varied climb involving technical skills and some endurance for the finish. What i noticed as i climbed was a bit of a mental game. Every move i climbed higher the more i didn't want to fall and have to start all over again. Crack climbing skills come in very handy up in the last few moves.

Start pretty much right above the top of the ladder. Climb a crimpy and technical sequence up to the nice comfortable ledge passing 3 bolts. The next section is another 3 bolt boulder problem which involves layback and gaston moves as well as some careful footwork. After being rewarded with another nice ledge weave your way through a series of ledges with less difficult climbing until you find yourself standing on one last rest looking at the steep exposed finish. Climb the corner above and move right in to powerful laybacks, a handjam and a potentially heart breaking move in to the final corner (stemming rest). Catch your breath in time for a breathtaking top out. Sit up there and take it all in. Amazing.

Unfortunately this route seeps for much of the year. If it's dry, CLIMB IT!

Location

It starts at the top of the ladder/stairs climbing a face to the big ledge. It finishes to the left of predator, look for the anchors on the left side of the big prow.

Protection

14 bolts! to fixed lower biners.

Photos

Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
This might be my favorite 12a at Rumney so far. Still I can only give it 3 stars because the its neighbor the Crusher is so much better despite being much easier too Jul 15, 2013
Graham O.
  5.12a
Graham O.  
  5.12a
Incredible climb. I thought it was around 5.11+ up to the last 15 feet, which in itself was like an insecure v4 boulder problem. You can either hand jam or use some decent holds on the face out right. Probably my favorite 5.12a at Rumney as of now. Aug 1, 2018
nd chu
 
nd chu  
 
Some belay beta. What I believe is the normal belay stance is on a block with a glue-in bolt right next to the bottom of the Crusher. This stance sucks, The first moves on Vaporizer are thin, and falling here or later makes the small awkward stance annoying. A much better option is the belay from the bottom of the stairs (if that areas isn't packed with people), climb the easy crack to the start, and then fire upward. Sep 24, 2018