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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chris Smith, May 1998
Page Views: 4,282 total · 43/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 15, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

An amazing long and varied climb involving technical skills and some endurance for the finish. What i noticed as i climbed was a bit of a mental game. Every move i climbed higher the more i didn't want to fall and have to start all over again. Crack climbing skills come in very handy up in the last few moves.

Start pretty much right above the top of the ladder. Climb a crimpy and technical sequence up to the nice comfortable ledge passing 3 bolts. The next section is another 3 bolt boulder problem which involves layback and gaston moves as well as some careful footwork. After being rewarded with another nice ledge weave your way through a series of ledges with less difficult climbing until you find yourself standing on one last rest looking at the steep exposed finish. Climb the corner above and move right in to powerful laybacks, a handjam and a potentially heart breaking move in to the final corner (stemming rest). Catch your breath in time for a breathtaking top out. Sit up there and take it all in. Amazing.

Unfortunately this route seeps for much of the year. If it's dry, CLIMB IT!

Location

It starts at the top of the ladder/stairs climbing a face to the big ledge. It finishes to the left of predator, look for the anchors on the left side of the big prow.

Protection

14 bolts! to fixed lower biners.

Photos

Eric8
Maynard, MA
 
Eric8   Maynard, MA
 
This might be my favorite 12a at Rumney so far. Still I can only give it 3 stars because the its neighbor the Crusher is so much better despite being much easier too Jul 15, 2013

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