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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Ward Smith 7/95
Page Views: 1,109 total · 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Jul 30, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

If Prime Climb is getting bland, add a little spice. British Airways Is a harder, more exposed finish to that popular route. Really fun moves on an amazing feature that ends about 100 ft off the ground.

A long reach will help you gain the arete then some technical foot work and picking the right holds out of the highly featured rock will help you make your way. Save a little juice for the last few feet where the holds get small and the sequence more tricky.

Like many of the routes in this area it is often wet :(

Location

Start on Prime Climb then break left at the hanging block at about 2/3 height to climb a striking arete.

Protection

The book says 13 bolts. I brought more than that (15 I think) and I ran out, having nothing for the anchor. Bring 17 I'd say including the anchor.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Named British Airways as it was originally a project of a certain Brit who was moving away so suggested to Ward that he take it over. "All ready to go!" he said. Ward went up it trying for the onsight but once onto the flying arete found that the bolts were pulling out by hand. Apparently the holes weren't cleaned before installation and the dust had made a slippery slurry when mixed with the water that had seeped in (and maybe not even tightened). Luckily I was up top with a rope looking to set up a TR for another project, so I was able to help out and put him on belay from above. Needless to say, the bolts were all replaced. Jul 30, 2013
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.12b
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.12b
good story and great route! Jul 30, 2013
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12b
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12b
I confirm the count of draws you need for this route.
Lee is right, 17 in total if you put two at the anchor.
Such a great climb even if a little dirty.
What do you expect, it's wet half the year.
Jump on it if it's dry! Jun 23, 2014
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
The huge block fractured at all corners before the divergence from Prime Climb is horrifying. Jun 19, 2018

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