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Routes in Orange Crush

Anaconda-Da-Vida S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Mamba S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
British Airways S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Buried Treasure S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chinese Water Torture S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Citrasolve S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crusher, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Drillary Step, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynosoar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Fish Hooks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Monkeys S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fresh Squeezed S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
King Cobra S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lions and Tigers and Bears S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oh My! finish S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Opportunist, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Orangahang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Orange Crush (retro-bolted) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Orange Sunshine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Original Orange Crush, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Peter Pan S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Prime Climb S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Purple Microdot S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sir Edmond Drillary S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tin Man S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Monkeys S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Tinkerbell S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tropicana S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vaporizer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
White Snake S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Sprague 5/98
Page Views: 1,366 total, 18/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jun 28, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Anaconda-Da-Vida, Baby (rhymes with the dreadful Iron Butterfly song) This technical route shares the same start as King Cobra and White Snake, pulling through a low small roof to a rest, then a tricky bulge onto the face. It then breaks left, following an angling seam. This section is thin, surprisingly pumpy and a little scary as you are angling out from your bolts. I heard a hold broke here, bumping the grade up a little since the FA. At the end of the seam, head straight up the face to tackle the dark bulge split by a curving crack, then up the final steepening face to the chains up right. I think the climbing is very good, but for some reason it doesn't get many attempts, perhaps due to it's reputation for somewhat scary feeling thin and tricky climbing. You will need to catch it when things are dry as the top often seeps during the wet season.

Location

Lower Orange Crush, on the Black Mamba wall, starting just left of that route. The start forks into 3 routes. This is the left branch.

Lower with a 60 m rope

Protection

Sport, with a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws and maybe a sling or 2. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea as the bottom can be sandy. 60 meter rope to be on the safe side. The route is longer than it looks.
Will McFarland
Lebanon, NH
  5.12d
Will McFarland   Lebanon, NH
  5.12d
I wish there were more sporty routes like this at Rumney. Unlike most other 5.12+ routes there, this one isn't broken up by a massive rest, and as a result it takes some mental fortitude to send. I'd say there's no better 12d at Rumney and definitely not one that's more sustained. Jul 18, 2017
Eli
Lives in a truck
Eli   Lives in a truck
For the curious:

youtube.com/watch?v=UIVe-rZ… Aug 5, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
It may have been patched up or removed since I was last on it. It originally had very visible, aqua green colored epoxy smeared around it. (early technology I guess) I never really understood it, as it wasn't a really necessary hold anyway, though the hold did provide a shake for some. Oct 14, 2014
i didn't know there was a glued hold in aquarius... it's not that so badly done if i missed it, where's that hold in the route? Oct 14, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
yeah, Aquarius and Man O might have to be tied for me though the latter is disjointed its.... JUST COOL! haven't done anaconda yet but it's on the upper end of my Orange Crush to-do list... Oct 8, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12d
I don't think Man Overboard is one of the best. It's too disjointed, IMO. I think my vote would be a tie between Anaconda and Aquarius. Oct 6, 2014
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Aquarius is certainly the prettiest (except for the badly glued hold). I might have to call Man Overboard the best, if you give it the grade, though it is a little soft for that imo. Lots of good competition for great 12ds at Rumney.
Anybody done all of them in a day, or even just all of them? That is like 20 pitches of 12d (not counting silly link-ups or projects) Oct 1, 2014
in my opinion aquarius is the best of all 12d Oct 1, 2014
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.12d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.12d
I think Anaconda-Da-Vita should be in the running for the best 12d at Rumney. It has it all--a technical start, heady climbing away from your bolt, an insecure clip, a hard crux, and pumpy steep climbing after. Sep 15, 2014
stow  
I like Iron Butterfly. And I like this route. Another good but less popular one- shady in summer in the afternoon too. More d than c due to what (I think) was a hold breaking above the mantle ledge? Or maybe it always just a terrible crimp. Jun 6, 2013