Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris Smith
Page Views: 2,004 total · 18/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Jun 9, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

In the words of Lee - "amazing climb! Steep and juggy 5.11 to a rest then an airy crux! I love it"

Between Predator and the second pitch of Tropicana, 5.11 big steep moves on big holds takes you up high off the Tropicana ledge,. Nearing the top, you can step right and get a good shake, then step down and left to attack the final crux bulge. The climb there changes character to powerful dynamic crimping, slopers and balance moves.  great positioning

With a 70 m rope and some slings on the first pitch and the mid belay anchor to keep the rope running well, this can be linked on top of the first pitch of Orange Crush 5.9 and is a great, really fun long pumpy route. If using this for a warm-up for the harder nearby routes, usually at least the very top has fixed draws, so you can skip the final 5.12 bit if you wish.

This route often suffers from seepage, but as long as you can keep your feet out of it, a little water shouldn't be a problem on the 5.11 part, with the holds being so good. This is also a great barefoot climb. If you come off, you just fly into space.

Make sure your belayer is tied into the end of the rope.

Location

Orange Crush starts about in the middle of the cliff, just left of Tropicana and right of the wooden stairs. The Opportunist is the
second pitch directly above, starting off the middle of the big flat Tropicana ledge, between Tropicana and Predator.

Protection

All bolts (9?). If linking from the first pitch of Orange Crush (recommended), use slings on some of the bolts on the first pitch and on the anchor on the ledge to reduce drag, and use a 70 meter rope. A 60m is fine if belaying on the ledge.

Make sure your belayer is tied into the end of the rope.

Photos