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Predator

5.13b, Sport,  Avg: 3.9 from 113 votes
FA: Ward Smith, 1998
New Hampshire > Rumney > Orange Crush

Description

You have seen images of this unmistakeable overhanging prow in magazines, on guidebook covers, and in climbing videos. You have wondered where this amazing piece of rock could possibly exist.

The climb is called The Predator and it exists at Orange Crush.

Long and steadily overhanging, but with few stopper moves, Predator is a popular first 13b. However, getting to the base is involved. Climb the first pitch of Tropicana (11a) and belay at two eye bolts on a perfect flat ledge. It is also possible to access this ledge from the left, starting up The Crusher and traversing straight around the corner to the ledge. If one pulls on bolts, it's possible to do this in approach shoes (5.6 A0).

After getting a vote of confidence from your belayer, it's time to head upward. The start holds a few 5.10ish moves and the climbing quickly turns to 5.8 jug hauling. A sit-down rest provides an opprtunity to regroup and consider the hanging prow. Though actually about 45 degrees overhanging, the perspective from the rest suggests that the prow is much steeper. A hard pull gains the prow after which crimps and deadpoints continue until the final crux sequence.

This crux involves a big deadpoint, or for style points, a most-points off dyno to a jug. Energy sapping moves on the arete proper lead to the lip. The topout, though mentally and physically taxing, is recommended by some and required by others. The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look yourself in the mirror in the morning.

Protection

Bolts. Draws are fixed. On redpoint attempts, a climber usually clips every other draw on the prow. The fall is the definition of clean.

A 60 meter rope is necessary for lowering from the top to the ground. If you would like to lower back to the ledge, have your belayer lower you to the fork of the spindly tree (staying on-belay, of course). Then have your belayer throw you a loop of rope to haul you in.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Sam Todzia just sticking to the desperate upper pump crux.
[Hide Photo] Sam Todzia just sticking to the desperate upper pump crux.
Unknown climber on Predator in the rain. Date was 9/13/14. I believe this was the last party to climb the route for the day. If this is you, let me know and i'll send you the image!
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on Predator in the rain. Date was 9/13/14. I believe this was the last party to climb the route for the day. If this is you, let me know and i'll send you the image!
Predator during autumn.
[Hide Photo] Predator during autumn.
lily going for it <br>
photo by mathieu fontaine
[Hide Photo] lily going for it photo by mathieu fontaine
Ladd flashing the dyno
[Hide Photo] Ladd flashing the dyno
Ladd maxing out on the upper pump crux
[Hide Photo] Ladd maxing out on the upper pump crux
Predator during a spring rain shower.<br>
[Hide Photo] Predator during a spring rain shower.
Ladd setting up for the final moves
[Hide Photo] Ladd setting up for the final moves
lily up on the prow of predator<br>
photo by mathieu fontaine
[Hide Photo] lily up on the prow of predator photo by mathieu fontaine
looking down on Predator :) Lily
[Hide Photo] looking down on Predator :) Lily
lily dynoing above the trees
[Hide Photo] lily dynoing above the trees
YES! i love this...
[Hide Photo] YES! i love this...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
[Hide Comment] My dream route that I hope to conquer (I think that's how you spell it) this summer! Wish me luck! Mar 28, 2007
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Good luck, Mike.... I have faith.... Mar 29, 2007
cjdrover
Watertown, MA
[Hide Comment] "The choice is yours, but you are the one who has to look at yourself in the mirror in the morning."

Love it. Nov 6, 2009
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=rtu5cIY…

i found this video on the youtube... a bit shaky but shows the moves well... Nov 19, 2009
Rajiv Ayyangar
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] I thought I saw black climbtech draws on the prow a couple months ago, but when I went last weekend the old tatt was back. Some of those biners were deeply grooved, and this route gets a lot of hangdogging - were the permadraws removed? if so, why? Oct 21, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] I once thought that it could never live up to it's reputation... it sounded like too much hype... i waited for a long time before trying it, maybe not wanting to be let down if it didnt live up to all that considerable hype... well, i climbing on it over the last 3 weeks, and sent it today... lets just say ive climbed A LOT of routes and this is hands down my favorite! i give it 5 stars out of four! if you make a list of reasons you'd like to climb 5.13 the top of the list should look like this...

1.PREDATOR!!!!! Nov 12, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] this shows a few goes on this amazing route leading to my send and a nice little back flip for celebration :)
youtube.com/watch?v=jtrg4Va… Nov 13, 2012
Tyler Wellman
Cambridge
[Hide Comment] Ha Lee clearly it was the clothes holding you back. If you take your pants off, you'll probly send China Beach next weekend.... if you can find someone to belay you. Nov 13, 2012
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] everyone knows you climb harder without a shirt haha... and ill try to find a slow day and dedicated belayer to test your theory haha... Nov 13, 2012
Keyan P
Portland, ME
[Hide Comment] I was trying this a couple weeks ago and found many of the draws on the prow to be in very bad condition. I saw Rajiv wrote a couple years ago that there were steel permas on this, any reason they were taken off? Oct 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] Jay Conway, making it look easy
youtu.be/cWZpP2ncYNQ May 30, 2014
Ryan Edwards
Los Angeles, CA
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Sent this back in June and it's still without a doubt the best route I've ever done. I don't know if it can be beat. Sep 20, 2018
[Hide Comment] Howdy!

I’ve been to Rumney many times but never to Predator \ Orange Crush. If I wanted to have a friend take pictures of “the money” shot of the climb with fall in the background. What is the beta for that? Do they have to climb anything or are they on a ledge, etc? Oct 2, 2021
M Sprague
New England
 
[Hide Comment] I think most photos are taken from around the starts of Sir Edmond-Orangahang
mountainproject.com/photo/1… Oct 2, 2021
Emma Kowal
Cambridge, MA -> SF
 
[Hide Comment] I just sent this last week (my first 5.13!!) and made a video compilation of my attempts. mostly falls and cursing but also some training I did on the kilter board to practice the redpoint crux. and some nice shots of the prow in different weather and lighting through the summer. hope people enjoy! :) youtube.com/watch?v=hb1n0LP… Aug 10, 2023
Macen Perkins
Pittsburgh
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] What a climb! A favorite of mine for sure. Took a lot of studying and moving quickly to get this one to go. Top out included!

Here's a first person POV for anyone interested
youtube.com/watch?v=NmWBYQP… Aug 28, 2025