Drumstick Direct 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Doug Snively and Dan McClure (from CGNA)? |
| Submitted By: | Ben F on Jun 3, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: Some guy from Boulder high on Drumstick Direct
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Description The first pitch is long and stellar. Bring two ropes to rap of the first pitch at the shuts. You should know how to crack climb and have some endurance if you hop on this baby.
You can't miss this thing, especially if you locate the heinous-looking flaring fat roof of For Turkeys Only. Our route is just to the right and has plenty of chalk on it (you don't need any). Look for a crack parallel crack system that starts off a small pedestal/ledge about 15-20 ft off the ground.It steepens and switches from a left-facing to a right-facing dihedral about 1/2 way and leads to a roof. Now you can't miss it.
Start in a left-facing corner and stem upwards to a small ledge, continue about 6 ft. up to a second small ledge to enter the parallel crack system. The right crack is part of a left-facing dihedral initially. You will most likely favor the left crack initially and eventually move to the right crack. Continue on this steepening crack. It switches to a right facing dihedral crack, eventually capped by a roof. Move upwards to the roof via stemming and jamming. Move out the left roof crack, up a few more feet, and onto an easy face to gain a ledge. Move right on the ledge to the rap anchors.
This thing is stellar. I can't believe that Hubbel doesn't give it any stars when it deserves 3. Come to think of it, he didn't give Gobbler's Grunt (2 stars IMHO) any, either. This thing is long and fairly sustained. I say it is easily better than Quiver and Quill. This is one of the best pitches I have done at the Platte - at least as good as the P1 of Straw Turkey and P2 on the Center Route.
Protection Standard rack, up to a #4 Friend/#3.5 Camalot. Double on hands and small hands. I placed a #4 Camalot, but it was not necessary. Note: I did not do the 2nd pitch, which is a short 5.8 offwidth and offwidth/chimney section - no one does it. At the top of the first pitch, traverse right to welded cold shut anchors.
Pat taking a second lap on TR after a long day of ...
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Pat making the crux look easy.
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Getting ready for the crux. Photo taken by Ben Hob...
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Bob Horan on the Turkey Tail.
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Thin crack before the first wide crux.
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Stem, stem, stem.
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Fun stuff...Trask on DD. Photo by Tim Banfield.
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Final piece of the puzzle...Trask on DD. Photo by...
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John's favorite part.
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Roofland.
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| Comments on Drumstick Direct |
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By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Jun 4, 2001
| I apologize for the typos. I'll quit submitting these things late at night. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 20, 2001
| I will agree...premo climbing. The thing that torched me was the stemming, my calves have never been so pumped in my entire life. |
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Oct 17, 2001
| I consider this route to be the best that Turkey Rock has to offer. The key to the onsight or the red point is to keep moving once you are in the corner crack. Do not be intimidated by the wide roof. Place a #4 Camalot at the lip, reach deep and high and there is a hand jam, run it out 10 feet ( clean fall) until you can stem and rest, place #1. Good Luck! |
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2002
| You can rappel off this route with a single 60 meter rope in 2 rappels. There is another set of cold shuts below the set described in the route description. Peter Hubble is wrong about where the crux is on this route. He claims it is at the first off-width roof, it is definitely at the top roof. |
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Sep 23, 2002
| Crux is firt roof, the second roof has a easy trick, HINT: look for the nubit and use you knees to keep you on. QED |
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.10d
| For an excellent second pitch, climb the 5.9 finger crack up and slightly righ of the anchors. There is a runout slabby section once the crack peters out. Great locks! |
By Chad Stebbins
Jul 12, 2004
| While not technically as hard as Whimsical Dreams, over all difficulty is on par with that route for me. Huge endurance fest, with several thuggish moves. For me, he crux was certainly pulling around the bulge to the right where the crack widens to fists. The upper roof is more tecnical but not as demanding. |
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 29, 2004
| The original line goes out left at the belay on hook moves. Free climbed by Kerry Gunter at 5.11R.
The right side of the roof on pitch one is known as the Hong Variation (10+ also), but I haven't done it. Looks cherry. |
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2004
| Hey Peter! Thanks for the correction.
When will you add Field of Dreams? |
By Chris Barlow
Nov 13, 2004
rating: 5.10d
| You can rap off the cold shuts on top of the first pitch with a single 70m rope. Just barely, though. This also an easy way to toprope Turkey Turd as the anchors are directly on top of this route. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
Apr 11, 2005
| Spanker! Unplug yourself from the spray box and go do it. Now. |
By Chad Kuhlman
From: Fort Collins
Jun 2, 2009
| As of 5/30/09 this routes current state makes it very unpleasant to climb. It is coated in bird crap. So much so that as you climb through the main jams of the route the crap will leave skid marks across your arms and makes it more difficult to climb from the slickness. Very Very Dirty right now. Maybe in the colder months this climb is cleaner and more enjoyable. |
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Jun 4, 2010
| I think this is one of the best one pitch crack climbs in the country. Even though I nearly heaved on my first go. I've done this about 300 times. Last week added a few more laps. Very little bird shit, but there is a spot of urine. |
By Cindy Mitchell
Apr 15, 2011
rating: 5.10d
| Holy Shit, Batman. Yep, lots of poop on this route. Good climbing, though. S U S T A I N E D ! |
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