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Routes in a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Alphonse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Baskerville Terrace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Between the Lines T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Bold is Beautiful T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Broken Sling T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bumkey T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Choad Warrior T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Close Encounters of the 5th Class Kind T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Criss T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Criss Cross Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Diamond In The Rough T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Diamond in the Rough Direct T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Disney Point T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Disneyland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dog-Stick-Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Easy Rider T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eighth Wonder of the World T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Fat City Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Fat City Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fat Stick T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Fat Stick Direct 5.10b T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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G-String T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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G-String Giants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gelsa T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Generation Gap T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Grand Central T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hounds, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Independence (Toto) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Infinite Space T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Inverted Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Cross T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Kansas City T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Land of The Giants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Layback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Le Plie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Le Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Outer Space T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Outer Space Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Penn Station T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Requiem T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Sling Time T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squat Thrust T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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St Louis (Dirty Girl) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Swing Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Taste of Gold T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Te Dum T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Topeka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Totally Crass T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Underbelly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wichita T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Yellow Belly T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Yellow Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 195 ft (59 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 41.73456, -74.195 |
| FA: | Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, George Temple, 1942 |
| Page Views: | 54,068 total · 216/month |
| Shared By: | Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, chris vultaggio, M Santisi |
Description
Gelsa is THE classic 5.4 route in the Gunks. The third-pitch corner is steep, exposed, and fun! Don't pass this one up, even if you're climbing at a harder grade.
Start by a tree growing out and up from the base of the cliff (see first picture below), about 20' left of Fat City Direct, at a pile of boulders below a blocky crack.
P1: Climb the blocky crack up to an overhang at ~20 ft, and continue no further upwards! Instead of following a hand crack (Land of The Giants, 5.7) up, clamber over a slight bulge on the left, and follow a horizontal to traverse left to a ledge with a tree. Build a belay near the tree. 5.3, 45'.
P2: Continue traversing left (var) past an overhang and into an alcove (you'll be just above the bolts for Roseland), then back up right to a crack and a face. Angle up left to a good ledge/alcove at the base of a huge, overhanging, right-facing corner, and make a belay on smaller gear here. 5.4, 60'.
Var: You can also diagonal up and left to the next belay, instead of traversing directly left. You'll end up climbing a slab towards the belay alcove at 5.6 or so.
P3: The money pitch. Climb up right and up (or, up and right - either way works) and follow the steep, exposed corner to the top, taking care to avoid loose blocks. Belay from a tree. 5.4, 90'.
Descent: Walk off to climbers' right, and look for an easy scramble back to the cliff base just before you reach the road.
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