Avg: 3.3 from 202 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1960|
|Page Views:||10,765 total · 60/month|
|Shared By:||Guy H. on May 4, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start about 80' left of Gelsa and 45' right of Transcon at a beautiful right-facing corner with an overhang halfway up.
P1: Follow the beautiful right-facing dihedral for 65'. The crux comes as you traverse to the right for 15' to the ledge with the bolted anchors. 5.9, 90'.
P2: Follow a shallow corner located up and left from the belay. Belay on a ledge. 5.8, 60'.
P3: The final pitch takes a line on the arete to the left of Gelsa. 5.7, 100'.