Connect with Facebook
To Be Or Not To Be [Edit]
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3.6 from 34
votes
Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
|
|
5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X |
|
|
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
|
|
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
|
|
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Russ Clune (TR, 1983) Russ Raffa, Russ Clune and Lynn Hill (Lead, 1983) |
| Page Views: | 3,396 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Mar 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description [Edit]
A fantastic face climb that keeps comin' at ya!
Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which you can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.
Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which you can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.
Location [Edit]
The route is 50 feet left of the Birdcage corner, on the face with the obvious face hold down low. Use the same anchor as Farewell to Arms.
Philadelphia, PA
CT
Philadelphia, PA
Wayne, PA
New Paltz, NY
Pasadena, CA
Otherwise, I find this a fantastic route in terms of moves and quality of rock.
If you want to bump it up a littler harder from this route, try Slammin the Salmon ... a but under-rated. I found it just a letter grade or two easier than Survival. Crux is sustained ... final crux is a tweak monster!
El Kabong ... from what Russ Raffa indicated that's a bit more to the right ... like right of Transcon? Or is that Diva? I tried the TR just to the right of To Be and no one called it El Kabong. Either way, I didn't much are for the route just right of To Be. Oct 8, 2015