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To Be Or Not To Be
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 3.6 from 35
votes
Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X |
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Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13 |
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Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Russ Clune (TR, 1983) Russ Raffa, Russ Clune and Lynn Hill (Lead, 1983) |
| Page Views: | 3,603 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Duca on Mar 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Description
A fantastic face climb that keeps comin' at ya!
Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which you can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.
Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which you can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.
Location
The route is 50 feet left of the Birdcage corner, on the face with the obvious face hold down low. Use the same bolted anchor as Farewell to Arms.
Philadelphia, PA
CT
Wayne, PA
New Paltz, NY
Pasadena, CA
Otherwise, I find this a fantastic route in terms of moves and quality of rock.
If you want to bump it up a littler harder from this route, try Slammin the Salmon ... a but under-rated. I found it just a letter grade or two easier than Survival. Crux is sustained ... final crux is a tweak monster!
El Kabong ... from what Russ Raffa indicated that's a bit more to the right ... like right of Transcon? Or is that Diva? I tried the TR just to the right of To Be and no one called it El Kabong. Either way, I didn't much are for the route just right of To Be. Oct 8, 2015