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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Russ Clune (TR, 1983) Russ Raffa, Russ Clune and Lynn Hill (Lead, 1983)
Page Views: 3,396 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Edit]

A fantastic face climb that keeps comin' at ya!

Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which you can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.

Location [Edit]

The route is 50 feet left of the Birdcage corner, on the face with the obvious face hold down low. Use the same anchor as Farewell to Arms.

Protection [Edit]

This route is easily and often TR'd (but see gear beta below in the comments).

Photos

Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a X
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a X
As far as the pro goes ... The first two pieces are larger camalots. Unfortunately you have to pull the first crux before you can place the second piece. You are in the groundfall zone for these moves. If you blow it here it would be very ugly as you would deck from 30+ feet. The second crux is protected well enough by the second piece (although it would be a big fall). The last crux is well protected by smaller finger size gear. Oct 1, 2012
Will Stat
  5.12a X
Will Stat  
  5.12a X
I worked this on tr and didn't particularly enjoy it. Its a nice white face but my main beef is that many of the holds seem to be uncharacteristically sharp, particularly a recently broken hold at the top crux. It came off to me as a less fun version of the sting (especially if you want to lead it). The gear options are pretty marginal - if this route were at any other area there would be a bolt or two in the middle of the climb. Multiple chances to deck on 11+ climbing. Nov 13, 2012
Morgan Patterson
CT
5.12a X
Morgan Patterson   CT  
5.12a X
Where'd the 11d come from? I've never heard this referenced as 11d... May 16, 2013
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a X
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a X
It was 11d BITD and the original line exited to the left near the top. The 12a supposedly comes from the direct finish which is how it is commonly climbed. I think the other cruxes are in the same ball park difficulty wise. May 17, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Hard climb. Sharp crimps, big moves, technique required. May 29, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.11+ R
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.11+ R
Top roped this yesterday and couldn't quite get past what I believe is the upper crux. It is definitely the most difficult section, though the moves below are technical and small. The sharp and tiny holds force you to really use your feet well. Takes some very small gear... would be a tough lead. Congrats to those who have led this! Jun 4, 2013
I just led this ground up the other evening after rehearsing with the gear a couple times. I placed a piece of gear between the two good cams that would've kept me off the ground while doing the lower crux moves. Great route. For those looking to step it up a notch I recommend doing El Kabong to the right. A bomber orange quad anchor was put up in May 2015 Jul 26, 2015
Nicolas Falacci
Pasadena, CA
 
Nicolas Falacci   Pasadena, CA
 
Defintely 12a with the direct finish -- which is how you really have to do it now. Surprised by all the comments about sharp holds ... from what I remember there a couple sharp edges above the "bear hug" opposing side-pulls section and then a couple sharp edges for the final crux ... which are the final moves.

Otherwise, I find this a fantastic route in terms of moves and quality of rock.

If you want to bump it up a littler harder from this route, try Slammin the Salmon ... a but under-rated. I found it just a letter grade or two easier than Survival. Crux is sustained ... final crux is a tweak monster!

El Kabong ... from what Russ Raffa indicated that's a bit more to the right ... like right of Transcon? Or is that Diva? I tried the TR just to the right of To Be and no one called it El Kabong. Either way, I didn't much are for the route just right of To Be. Oct 8, 2015

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