All Locations > New York > Gunks > Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…

To Be Or Not To Be

Name: To Be Or Not To Be
Rating: 3.6

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R

Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

L › R R › L A › Z

	5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
	Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
	Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
	Predator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Princess Leia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Slammin' T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	To Be Or Not To Be T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
	Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wildmere T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
	Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Russ Clune (TR, 1983) Russ Raffa, Russ Clune and Lynn Hill (Lead, 1983)
Page Views:	4,941 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Chris Duca on Mar 18, 2009
Admins:	RJ B Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.

The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.

Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.

Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.

If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.

Description

A fantastic face climb that keeps comin' at ya!

Lock-off moves on razor edges get you off the ground, after which you can expect technical and demanding climbing all the way to the anchor. This route demands stamina, fingers of steel and a penchant for cryptic sequences.