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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Revolving Eyeballs T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jim McCarthy, Al DeMaria, 1960
Page Views: 4,445 total · 29/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

95 Opinions

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An exciting route.

Start at the same place as Bird Cage, at a huge corner.

P1: Climb 15' up the corner and traverse left. Although not the hardest part of the pitch, this is definitely challenging to lead, and spicier for both leader and second than guidebooks may describe now (2013) that a piton has gone to dust. 9/2016 update: the piton has returned. 3/2017: pin gone.

After traversing about 15', climb corners up to an overhang. Pass this on the left to a ledge and a bolted anchor. This anchor is often used to TR the routes to the left. 5.8, 90'.

Although short, there is a lot of climbing on this pitch.


Standard Gunks rack


gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This climb has a lot of variety in one pretty short pitch. It starts off with a fun corner, to a spicy traverse (well protected, or used to be - JSH) and then moves into an organge corner/dihedral. The moves in the dihedral are technical and fun and then it's a jug haul out of the corner and up to the chains. Lots of fun. Jul 18, 2010
Sustained and exciting, lots of moves around 7 and 8 which are not like typical Gunks face moves (and nothing like indoor moves). The traverse seemed to actually go downwards a bit from right to left. The first move into the traverse is pretty exciting (and you might get banged up if you fall there), but perhaps not fully 8 in difficulty once you work it out carefully.

The key is not to freak out in the sustained corner section above after the traverse. There are lots of moves requiring thought -- and the pro is not necessarily easy to place. It's not a climb to be trying if you're in a hurry, and it helps to have lots of previous experience with a variety of Gunks rock situations. Apr 11, 2013
Pawel Janowski
Pawel Janowski   WA
Incredible variety on such a short pitch. You can protect the first scary move by placing a piece high in the inside corner and extending with a long sling.

Once you grab the horizontal beneath the roof it's all easy jugs but don't forget to protect the second as you move out left. Apr 17, 2013
This route is probably pg13 now that the piton in the traverse is gone. If you fall you're going to swing into the corner pretty hard. If your second falls, they will also swing. So it's not a good route for beginning followers. It might be protectable with a purple or gray c3 or black alien, though I didn't have them on me when last I led it. May 22, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
There used to be a pin in the traverse. Sadly it's gone. Apr 10, 2014
Preserve rules allow for the pin to be replaced. Anyone know what it was? Jul 2, 2014
It would have to be a knife blade piton. It's also what I was told it was by a local. Sep 28, 2015
Brooklyn, NY
Phredward   Brooklyn, NY
As of September 2016 there is a shiny, new piton back in at the start of the traverse. Sep 21, 2016
The Gunks
chris_vultaggio   The Gunks
as of 3/17 traverse piton is gone. Mar 8, 2017
Chris W
Somerville, MA
Chris W   Somerville, MA
As of 9/17 the piton is back. Sep 20, 2017
brooklyn, ny
Danny   brooklyn, ny
climbed this yesterday, can confirm the new black piton is there. i just barely reached it stemming from the corner, then made the 2 spicy moves traversing left. a jug and solid feet save you just in time. it's more mental than physical.

the corner above was both though! lots of climbing, as has been said. i jugged, crimped, stemmed, hand jammed, and finger locked. there are least two, maybe three, other old pitons there to clip. this was a pretty thought provoking 5.8 route. Oct 8, 2017
Chris W
Somerville, MA
Chris W   Somerville, MA
For what it is worth you can protect the move out to the piton with a little bit of ingenuity. Half ropes work pretty well for this route. Feb 14, 2018

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