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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: TR: Gruenberg (1985), FFA: Smith, Harder, and Mann (1989)
Page Views: 617 total · 16/month
Shared By: Alex CV on Jul 18, 2015
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Interesting climbing on decent holds takes the mostly direct line up the El Camino Real face. Start from the large boulders halfway between Transcon and Roseland on crimps. Finish by climbing into the shallow open book below the anchor.

Williams' guide does not give this any stars, or even bold font. But it is a high quality route, and is worth doing.

Protection

There is a fixed gear anchor at the top. It appears that there is a significant runout at the start and the end. (I did not lead this, as it is above my pay grade.)

Photos

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I led this ground up recently after a few other locals had done the same. This is a high quality route and I appreciate this author's description. A bomber orange quad anchor was put up in May 2015 Jul 26, 2015

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