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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Dick Williams, Steve Arsenault, & Wilber Cain - 1971FFA: Henry Barber & Bob Anderson - 1972
Page Views: 10,722 total · 71/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Bird Cage is a great climb on a great section of the cliff. It takes the most central, obvious line in the Birdland area -- which is identified by a huge corner. The face that makes up the right side of this dihedral is Birdland; the corner itself is Bird Cage.

P1: Ascend this corner at challenging 5.8. Once you get to the roof, place pro (sometimes a fixed wire here), traverse out right, and get horizontal. A long reach will get you through it.

Rap from a fixed anchor above, or use the Birdland bolt anchor directly to the right; or finish on P2 of Birdland.

Protection

Standard Rack.
The 2nd pitch of Birdland up and to the right and is under-appreciated - it's nice 5.8 climbing, good pro, interesting corner/roof moves. Sep 15, 2008
The dihedral is more like 10- instead of "challenging 5.8" but have a shot, a see for yourself. Fun climb. Apr 19, 2015
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
I agree with Moritz B: The corner is sustained and technical. 9+ or 10- for sure. Jun 1, 2015
SethG  
I say the corner is just plain 5.9, the traverse is 5.10b, and the roof is harder than that: 5.9+. Jun 1, 2015
losbill  
Okay Seth, I'm confused.

...and the roof is harder than that: 5.9+.

Are you applying North Conway route grading and implying the roof is harder than 5.10b? Or am I misinterpreting your comment and you are grading the roof as a Gunks 5.9+? I assume the latter but always keep an open mind. I only question it since you are usually very precise and correct in your sentence structure. You haven't had a glass or two of wine before posting by chance?

Champagne Bill Jun 1, 2015
SethG  
losbill, don't you know that 5.9+ is harder than 5.10b?

Sure seems that way to me!

I think the roof is 5.10 minus, to be honest. Jun 1, 2015
Funny that I never knew we were doing a 1st ascent, since Dick Williams never mentioned it, back in 1971. Don't really remember the climb, since it was a long time ago. Jul 31, 2016
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.10b
a worthy variation is to do Birdland and finish up and left on the roof of Bird Cage. The face climbing leading to the roof is much easier than the traverse on standard Bird Cage, but with limited pro Jul 11, 2017

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