Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 1958
Page Views: 14,250 total · 88/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


241 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.

This climb is easy to find. Follow the trail past the huge right-facing corner of Roseland, past the 'gym', and up a few steps to the next huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.

P1: Start at the corner, but work up and right across the horizontals to a fixed pin, and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux; may be tricky to protect) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Two bolts await you higher and further out on the arete. 5.8+, 90'.

Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.

P2. Proceed up into a steep left-facing corner, then past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.

Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Don't miss out on the second pitch. Incredible. Mar 15, 2006
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
John what do you mean by a classic "Land" climb?

Regarding the two responses below; thanks gentlemen. Now, not that I need anymore climbing goals, the "Land" climbs at the Gunks have become one! Mar 15, 2008
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
I think a lot of people get confused by this description and comment. When I first started climbing at the Gunks and saw this comment in the Williams guide, I thought it meant the route was short, thus close to the "land". If you look through the guidebook, however, many route names end or begin with the word "land". For instance--"Birdland", "Disneyland", "Never Never Land", "Turdland", "Land's End", "Absurdland", "Land of Milk and Honey"...the list goes on and on. A good goal would be to do all the "land" climbs in the Gunks. Mar 18, 2008
John Peterson
  5.8+
John Peterson  
  5.8+
To quote Chris Jones (Climbing in North America), in 1958, "McCarthy launched out on a series of classics, the "Land" climbs, with his Birdland (5.9) and Roseland (5.9)". Later, MaCarthy and Gran put up Never Never Land. Finally, in 1960 they "put in a finale to the Land climbs, Land's End".

Although it was McCarthy that started the "Land" climbs, others continued the tradition and thus the Gunks contain quite a few "Land" climbs, almost all of which are classics. Mar 19, 2008
paulmadry  
 
Do the 2nd pitch. Period. Aug 6, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
P1 is always a pleasure, although I always forget the location of the the little white pebble (left foot) for the crux move. P2 is very different from P1, in my opinion the better of the two pitches. Lots of nice moves to a nice roof. Aug 17, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9+
Fantastic climbing that doesn't really ever let up. The first pitch crux was a fun puzzle to solve. This would be a solid 5.10 in the south. Oct 13, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.

I completely disagree, IMHO... Nov 21, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
I also disagree. Jan 29, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Pulling the roof directly on P2 is 5.9. Escaping out right is 5.8. Gear is good either way. May 30, 2012
ARMoss
  5.8+
ARMoss  
  5.8+
WITH a BD 0.4 in the right place and careful attention to the feet at the P1 crux, this climb's great, airy, fun, and interesting. WITHOUT those two things, it could feel 5.9+ and pretty PG13, especially to someone not solid at the grade. I felt like P1 was the better, harder pitch, but P2 is well worth the trouble, especially if you like Gunks roofs. The blueberries on route are amazing, too. Jul 16, 2013
EricBacus
Kingston, ny
  5.8+
EricBacus   Kingston, ny
  5.8+
Thought Pt.1 was G and about right at 8+.
Pt. 2 felt more PG and around 9ish for the roof. Both pitches are great. Jul 23, 2014
Climbed both pitches of this on 9/1/15. Since there is a lack of beta on the second pitch I thought I would chime in.

The 2nd pitch is definitely worth doing, as everyone says. The opening section is very easy face climbing up to the open-book crux area. This section has 2 pitons and also plenty of smaller placements available. The open-book crux can be protected with a bomber nut on the right-facing side pull at the base of the book. I thought it was a mild crux compared to the 1st pitch. After the crux you are jug-hauling on horizontals on the roof. I placed a bd #1 and .75 here and took the easier path, traversing right on the horizontal. After you get to the top there are either good trees or a good horizontal crack on left for anchors (I used metolius .5, 2, and 1). Enjoy. Sep 5, 2015
David K
New Paltz, NY
  5.8
David K   New Paltz, NY
  5.8
SPOILERS:

I think the first pitch is 5.7PG13 or 5.9G depending on how you protect the crux.

The 5.7PG13 way is to step high and drop a small nut into the triangular crack above, then move left and use the large, secure crescent-shaped hold to get your feet up and reach the good horizontal above. The move is not so hard, but the nut is questionable and the previous piece is a good ways back.

The 5.9G way is to put a cam and/or a nut in the large, secure crescent-shaped hold. Blocking this hold means you have to lean far left onto an adequate but poorly-positioned side-pull, step up with some balance and tension to gain the good horizontal above. I found this move much harder and even fell on it, but the gear was much more comforting. Oct 20, 2018
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
 
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
 
Holy !@#$. There are giant wasps on the top cracks of this route, so bee careful! There maybe a nest on the upper crack system towards the top - you can traverse right on the big foot ledge and top out there.

Otherwise it's a great climb, good moves, protection is there where you need it. Certainly want to go for the 2nd pitch next time. Apr 5, 2019