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Routes in b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)

5.8 Crack Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
After You T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Back to the future T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bird Cage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Birdbrain T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Birdland T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
El Camino T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
El Kabong T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Elder Cleavage Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eraserhead T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Farewell to Arms T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat and Weak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grease Gun Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lonely Challenge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Loose Goose T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pain Strain T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Road Warrior T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Roseland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shitface T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Silver Bullet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slammin' the Salmon T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
To Be Or Not To Be T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
To Have or Have Not T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Transcontinental Nailway T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tulip Mussel Garden T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Up Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yum Yum Yab Yum T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 1958
Page Views: 13,448 total · 89/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


224 Opinions

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Description

One of the classic "Land" climbs. And yes, that's the same John Rupley that put up so many climbs in Arizona.

This climb is easy to find. Follow the trail past the huge right-facing corner of Roseland, past the 'gym', and up a few steps to the next huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.

P1: Start at the corner, but work up and right across the horizontals to a fixed pin, and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux; may be tricky to protect) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Two bolts await you higher and further out on the arete. 5.8+, 90'.

Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.

P2. Proceed up into a steep left-facing corner, then past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.

Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.
Adam Catalano
Albany, New York
 
Adam Catalano   Albany, New York
 
Don't miss out on the second pitch. Incredible. Mar 15, 2006
losbill
  5.8
losbill  
  5.8
John what do you mean by a classic "Land" climb?

Regarding the two responses below; thanks gentlemen. Now, not that I need anymore climbing goals, the "Land" climbs at the Gunks have become one! Mar 15, 2008
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
I think a lot of people get confused by this description and comment. When I first started climbing at the Gunks and saw this comment in the Williams guide, I thought it meant the route was short, thus close to the "land". If you look through the guidebook, however, many route names end or begin with the word "land". For instance--"Birdland", "Disneyland", "Never Never Land", "Turdland", "Land's End", "Absurdland", "Land of Milk and Honey"...the list goes on and on. A good goal would be to do all the "land" climbs in the Gunks. Mar 18, 2008
To quote Chris Jones (Climbing in North America), in 1958, "McCarthy launched out on a series of classics, the "Land" climbs, with his Birdland (5.9) and Roseland (5.9)". Later, MaCarthy and Gran put up Never Never Land. Finally, in 1960 they "put in a finale to the Land climbs, Land's End".

Although it was McCarthy that started the "Land" climbs, others continued the tradition and thus the Gunks contain quite a few "Land" climbs, almost all of which are classics. Mar 19, 2008
paulmadry  
 
Do the 2nd pitch. Period. Aug 6, 2009
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
P1 is always a pleasure, although I always forget the location of the the little white pebble (left foot) for the crux move. P2 is very different from P1, in my opinion the better of the two pitches. Lots of nice moves to a nice roof. Aug 17, 2009
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
  5.9+
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
  5.9+
Fantastic climbing that doesn't really ever let up. The first pitch crux was a fun puzzle to solve. This would be a solid 5.10 in the south. Oct 13, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
This would be a solid 5.10 in the south.

I completely disagree, IMHO... Nov 21, 2010
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
 
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
 
I also disagree. Jan 29, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.9
Pulling the roof directly on P2 is 5.9. Escaping out right is 5.8. Gear is good either way. May 30, 2012
ARMoss
  5.8+
ARMoss  
  5.8+
WITH a BD 0.4 in the right place and careful attention to the feet at the P1 crux, this climb's great, airy, fun, and interesting. WITHOUT those two things, it could feel 5.9+ and pretty PG13, especially to someone not solid at the grade. I felt like P1 was the better, harder pitch, but P2 is well worth the trouble, especially if you like Gunks roofs. The blueberries on route are amazing, too. Jul 16, 2013
EricBacus
Kingston, ny
  5.8+
EricBacus   Kingston, ny
  5.8+
Thought Pt.1 was G and about right at 8+.
Pt. 2 felt more PG and around 9ish for the roof. Both pitches are great. Jul 23, 2014
Climbed both pitches of this on 9/1/15. Since there is a lack of beta on the second pitch I thought I would chime in.

The 2nd pitch is definitely worth doing, as everyone says. The opening section is very easy face climbing up to the open-book crux area. This section has 2 pitons and also plenty of smaller placements available. The open-book crux can be protected with a bomber nut on the right-facing side pull at the base of the book. I thought it was a mild crux compared to the 1st pitch. After the crux you are jug-hauling on horizontals on the roof. I placed a bd #1 and .75 here and took the easier path, traversing right on the horizontal. After you get to the top there are either good trees or a good horizontal crack on left for anchors (I used metolius .5, 2, and 1). Enjoy. Sep 5, 2015

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