Avg: 3.5 from 292 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, Jim Andress, 1958|
|Page Views:||16,384 total · 86/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
This climb is easy to find. Follow the trail past the huge right-facing corner of Roseland, past the 'gym', and up a few steps to the next huge corner (Bird Cage), just before the cliff becomes licheny.
P1: Start at the corner, but work up and right across the horizontals to a fixed pin, and pull a small overhang. Continue up the face (crux; may be tricky to protect) and eventually work a bit right to the arete. Two bolts await you higher and further out on the arete. 5.8+, 90'.
Many people rap from here but the second pitch is just as good.
P2. Proceed up into a steep left-facing corner, then past some small roofs, to the top. 5.8+, 115'.
Descend at the Fat City tree or on the trail.