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5.9, Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.3 from 161 votes
FA: Jim McCarthy, Hans Kraus 1958. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1960
New York > Gunks > Near Trapps > b. Gelsa to Moe (clos…
Roseland has one of the best 5.9 pitches in the Gunks. Since there are fixed chains at the end of the first pitch, most climbers rap after the first pitch.
Start about 80' left of
and 45' right of
at a beautiful right-facing corner with an overhang halfway up.
P1: Follow the beautiful right-facing dihedral for 65'. The crux comes as you traverse to the right for 15' to the ledge with the
. 5.9, 90'.
P2: Follow a shallow corner located up and left from the belay. Belay on a ledge. 5.8, 60'.
P3: The final pitch takes a line on the arete to the left of
. 5.7, 100'.
Gear to #2 Camalot with extra finger-sized gear.
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In the traverse.
Jeff Arliss nearing the top of the corner.
Climbing up to the direct finish.
Marc Gravatt climbing up from the final traverse into the v-notch for the direct finish.
The first pitch of Roseland
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An alternative and more exciting finish to the first pitch is to go straight up about halfway through the traverse and then make your way right to the chains. In the photo, it goes through the v-notch above the triangular roof which is up and right of the climber.
May 5, 2006
Great climb, smooth feet but totally stem-able, I wouldn't want to do it in the sun. I wouldn't call it sustained but the traverse is a pumpy. There were two fixed pitons when I did it and the rope drag became horrible, maybe I should have used a long draw on the 2nd piton?
Aug 19, 2012
The first pitch is fantastic, but the second and third seem seldom-traveled. Not quite sure I climbed the right thing for those as they seemed easy for the grade and involved a small overlap with Gelsa on p2, but fun anyway!
Oct 22, 2012
Lots of climbing at 8 and more. No single notably hard move, though one seemed a bit reachy for those of us less than 5ft9in. Good technique helps save strength on the lower two-thirds, but I think the key to success is plenty of finger endurance to get thru the upper traverse, and without freaking out so do not miss that actually it's gotten easier further right on the traverse.
Note that if the follower falls after unclipping the first piton on the upper traverse, might fall down to a place out of reach of both Roseland and of the 5.8 finish of Shitface.
Apr 11, 2013
San Pedro, California
Great corner. Pumpy traverse. Would like to hear about upper pitches or linkups.
Nov 10, 2014
Is this the most slippery climb in the gunks? It must be close to it!
Jun 5, 2018