| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Stolen Chimney
|
Southeast Utah
> Fisher Towers
> Ancient Art
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
|
|
Dec 31, 2026 · Lead. Took Bella, Dustin, and Kasey up for NY Eve! Oh, and we put a Christmas tree on the top!
|
|
●
Lonely Vigil
|
Southeast Utah
> River Rd
> Lighthouse Tower
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 5 pitches
|
|
Dec 30, 2026 · Lead. W Dustin
Chilly morning, actually took a fall on the second pitch stem. Safe
Gear beta good
|
|
●
Keyhole Flake
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Dec 29, 2026 · Lead. W Dustin
|
|
●
22 going on 23
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad
|
|
Dec 29, 2026 · Lead. Warmup W Dustin
|
|
●
Supercrack of the Desert (a…
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Dec 29, 2026 · 1 pitch. Lead. Lead for Dustin
|
|
●
Chasing the Dragon
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trad
|
|
Dec 29, 2026 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Just gave her a try, some bits felt better some felt worse. Gear beta good, probably 1 less .5-#4
|
|
●
Cupcake Corner
|
CO Ice & Mixed
> Vail Ice
> Rigid Designator Amph…
|
|
WI4-5 M5
Sport, Mixed, Ice
|
|
Jan 12, 2026 · TR.
|
|
●
Spiral Staircase
|
CO Ice & Mixed
> Vail Ice
> Spiral Staircase area
|
|
WI4- M5
Trad, Mixed, Ice
|
|
Jan 12, 2026 · TR.
|
|
●
Railroad Tracks
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Battle of the Bulge B…
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Dec 22, 2025 · Lead.
|
|
●
Generic Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Donnelly Canyon
|
|
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad 2 pitches
|
|
Dec 22, 2025 · 1 pitch. Lead.
|
|
●
Swedin-Ringle
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Battle of the Bulge B…
|
|
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Dec 22, 2025 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. First go hung in rattle finger size, just punch it to the good fingers.
Then say to figure out top beta
Second go thrashed lol
|
|
●
Binou's Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Donnelly Canyon
|
|
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad
|
|
Dec 22, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. W Homie
|
|
●
Krack Kokane
|
Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Abraxas Wall
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Dec 20, 2025 · Lead. Harder than I recalled
.5 bottom
.4-.3 top
|
|
●
Krack Pipe
|
Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Abraxas Wall
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad
|
|
Dec 20, 2025 · Lead. Didn’t use the pillar, fun that way.
Take 2 #4s or 1 #5?
|
|
●
Abraxas Right
|
Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Abraxas Wall
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad
|
|
Dec 20, 2025 · TR.
|
|
●
Abraxas Left
|
Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Abraxas Wall
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Dec 20, 2025 · Lead.
|
|
●
International Affair
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trad
|
|
Dec 19, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Made it to the transition on lead, felt decent then didn’t quite know the best sequence.
On TR worked the moves, basically 1.5 hung it.
RH undercling lock
LH pinky down on higher pod
Work feet up, use face divot
Once higher use high left foot and LH lock in beveled pod and RH on crip to get high RF on chip above roof. Reach HIGH and get final lock
Could maybe go soon?
|
|
●
Incredible Hand Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
Dec 19, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Day flash warmup
|
|
●
Pringles
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Dec 19, 2025 · TR. Sent to the bulge again, cruxy and insecure up there. Would take nuts and .2s if leading
Left hand palm press fun in crux sequence
|
|
●
Coyne Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
|
Dec 19, 2025 · Lead / Pinkpoint. Felt casual this time, what an enjoyable climb and super fun to return and have it feel so good rather than the phaffing I’d done before.
|
|
●
Toe of Frog
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Theater
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Dec 17, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Decent climbing, a bit chossier than the rest
|
|
●
Eye of Newt
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Theater
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sport
|
|
Dec 17, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Real fun climbing and easy to follow.
|
|
●
A Pound Of Choss
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Theater
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Dec 17, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Day flash warmup yee
|
|
●
Frothing For Pockets
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Take-Out Beach
> Theater
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Dec 17, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Really good, more fun than I remembered. Nice crux around the bulge.
|
|
●
Exoduster
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Endless Wall
> B) Party Buttress
|
|
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Nov 29, 2025 · Lead / Flash. Day flash? Meh… least favorite of the day
|
|
●
Stim-O-Stam
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Endless Wall
> B) Party Buttress
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sport
|
|
Nov 29, 2025 · 2 pitches. Lead / Redpoint. Fell after the crux on the onsight then did a TR fitness lap. Went easy, super fun climb!
Went right at crux
|
|
●
Spectre
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Endless Wall
> D) Idol Point
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Nov 29, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Wow, amazing. Maybe 2 .5 and .4
|
|
●
Mellifluus
|
New River Gorge…
> …
> Endless Wall
> A) Fern Point
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Nov 29, 2025 · Lead / Onsight. Siiiick, slab moves protected by tiny nuts lets goooo
|
|
●
Finger of Fate
|
Southeast Utah
> Fisher Towers
> Titan
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
|
|
Nov 13, 2025 · Lead. Long day climbing adventure with Mark!
Some notes:
The tower climbs great, what a stellar line.
Getting to the tower was just a little tricky at the end, when you enter the final bowls you have to be up at the top of the scree fields against the flat wall to approach. It took us 1:30 with a decent pace.
I climbed with a triple rack to #3 and 2 #4s
You could absolutely get away with a double if you didn’t link. I wouldn’t bring any micro gear, maybe placed one black totem on the whole route. The 2 #4s are needed, but I don’t think anything bigger.
I did place two nuts and one tricam, which I found key on the roof pull traverse pitch.
I also had a rack of offsets from .2 - .75 and it made any would be sketchy placements feel so solid. I chuckled every time I placed one cause it felt like cheating.
The final bolt ladder is STRETCHY, take a little cheater draw or something. You only need a bit more reach to make it easier.
The top out is a little heady but goes easy and the rock is good.
Decent is easy and ropes pull fine, use every station in the gully. I cleaned a stuck rope but there still remains one, it’s wrapped around a horn on a far formation I didn’t want to get to in the dark.
All in all, epic day on an epic tower
|
|
●
The Flow
|
Southeast Utah
> Fisher Towers
> River Tower
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
|
|
Nov 12, 2025 · Lead. Led all pitches and Mark followed.
A few thoughts,
This first pitch is a bit bold albeit easy, a #5 seemed necessary to reach the 3rd bolt.
I found that micro cams were hardly needed, maybe placed 1 black totem.
Doubles .3-.5 seemed sufficient and triples .75 - #3, the second and third pitch really eats these up.
The rivet ladder seemed bomber, and is still missing one or two (easily negated with clipstick) I reckon one could hook through this but wasn’t bold enough to find out.
The final pitch we went left and it was nice to have brought the #4 - #6
The chimneys are easy enough, the hardest part is all your aid gear catching and scraping..
Rappelled the route easy on double ropes.
|
|
●
Boot Hill
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Maverick Buttress
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trad
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Good go, bottom was surprisingly pumpy.
Sent it till middle headwall when the feet go away and you’re forced into some odd movements. Good route
.4
.5
7 .75
4 #1
|
|
●
Just the Tip!
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Maverick Buttress
|
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trad
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Hm, had negative progress
I swear the crack was bigger last time, my .3 didn’t fit anywhere at the top this time where last time it was my last piece.
Anyway; still hard. Need to work top moves
|
|
●
Gunsmoke
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Maverick Buttress
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Nov 11, 2025 · Lead / Flash.
|
|
●
The Incisor
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Broken Tooth
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
|
Nov 9, 2025 · 2 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung. Roof still got me
WC #3
#4
4.5
5
#1
5
|
|
●
Polygrip
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Broken Tooth
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
|
Nov 9, 2025 · Lead / Redpoint. Hurray! Finally sent.
Felt pretty good, a bit pumped a the roof but using all the rests I could in the corner was key. Going for it above the roof to get the foot up also good and safe
|
|
●
Unbelievable
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Broken Tooth
|
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trad
|
|
Nov 9, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Seemed easy on TR. The lead go said otherwise.. just a classic fitness challenge.
2 .4 totems protects crux easy
Heavier on the .5s than .75s
2 #1s
2 #2s bottom and too
1 #3 to protect top
|
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