Elevation: 4,694 ft
GPS: 38.545, -109.655 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 144,723 total · 647/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 26, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Long Canyon is a little slice of sandstone heaven only a half hour drive from Moab. If you dig Indian Creek but get tired of waiting in line, check out this little gem. There are routes here that would get climbed hundreds of times a year if they were at Indian Creek, but in Long Canyon they retain an air of adventure and discovery. Splitters are the name of the game. The stone is high quality Wingate - just decide what size you want and you can find it, from desperate tips to menacing offwidth. Fret not, there are some top of the line hand cracks too.

The canyon offers two main areas, The Maverick Buttress, and The Shipyard. Maverick is better with a wider selection of routes and good shade. The Shipyard offers sun and a few good routes. There are also a number of very good climbs scattered about the canyon walls, many of which are not in any guide book so expoloration will reward the motivated. The canyon is huge and there is vast potential for new routes if you seek them out.

Bring a rack big enough to make any stripper jealous and some real beer from out of state. Free camping is readily available along the canyon floor and is generaly quiet and clean except for the occasional jeep drive by or desert-love-child beating their drum at 2 in the morning. The nearest facilities for water, ice and food are in Moab. A high clearance vechicle is recommended for the road up to Maverick Buttress but is not critical. Although the Wingate is of excellent quality, it is still sandstone and some of the lesser climbed routes hold dangerous loose rock, use caution, have fun.

Getting There

Long Canyon is easy to find, it's right off Potash Road. From Moab drive North on US 191 to Potash Road. Follow the Colorado River towards the potash mine. Pass the Potash climbing area on your right and continue on until you see a sign for Jug Handle Arch on the left side of the road, which is about 15 miles from the junction of Potash Road and US 191. The arch is on the right side and is not obvious until you have passed the sign. Take your first right turn after the sign and you will be on Long Canyon Road which leads past The Ship Yard (park at the first campsite on the right) and continues up to some switch-backs and Maverick Buttress.

100 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 172
Hot Toddy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 123
Texas Two Step
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Chopper
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 28
Program Director
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 113
Round-Up
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 230
Tequila Sunrise
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 172
Gunsmoke
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 11
Peccadillo
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
Dragon's Lair
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Done Lubin'
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 27
Seventh Serpent
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 98
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 21
Dawn of an Error
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Boot Hill
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hot Toddy Maverick Buttress
 172
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Texas Two Step Maverick Buttress
 123
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Chopper Deadman's Buttress
 22
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Program Director Deadman's Buttress
 28
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Round-Up Maverick Buttress
 113
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise Maverick Buttress
 230
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Gunsmoke Maverick Buttress
 172
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops Shady Crag
 28
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Peccadillo Deadman's Buttress
 11
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dragon's Lair Deadman's Buttress
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Done Lubin' Offwidth City
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 5 pitches
Seventh Serpent Reptilian Wall
 27
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way Maverick Buttress
 98
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Dawn of an Error Deadman's Buttress
 21
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Boot Hill Maverick Buttress
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
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