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Areas in Long Canyon

Deadman's Buttress 15 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Forming Arch 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Longs Canyon Tower 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
Maverick Buttress 18 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Offwidth City 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Physics Department 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Reptilian Wall 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Roadside Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Shady Crag 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Shipyard, The 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Triple Buttress Area 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Warrior Tower 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 4,694 ft
GPS: 38.545, -109.655 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 67,858 total, 355/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 26, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Long Canyon is a little slice of sandstone heaven only a half hour drive from Moab. If you dig Indian Creek but get tired of waiting in line, check out this little gem. There are routes here that would get climbed hundreds of times a year if they were at Indian Creek, but in Long Canyon they retain an air of adventure and discovery. Splitters are the name of the game. The stone is high quality Wingate - just decide what size you want and you can find it, from desperate tips to menacing offwidth. Fret not, there are some top of the line hand cracks too.

The canyon offers two main areas, The Maverick Buttress, and The Shipyard. Maverick is better with a wider selection of routes and good shade. The Shipyard offers sun and a few good routes. There are also a number of very good climbs scattered about the canyon walls, many of which are not in any guide book so expoloration will reward the motivated. The canyon is huge and there is vast potential for new routes if you seek them out.

Bring a rack big enough to make any stripper jealous and some real beer from out of state. Free camping is readily available along the canyon floor and is generaly quiet and clean except for the occasional jeep drive by or desert-love-child beating their drum at 2 in the morning. The nearest facilities for water, ice and food are in Moab. A high clearance vechicle is recommended for the road up to Maverick Buttress but is not critical. Although the Wingate is of excellent quality, it is still sandstone and some of the lesser climbed routes hold dangerous loose rock, use caution, have fun.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Getting There

Long Canyon is easy to find, it's right off Potash Road. From Moab drive North on US 191 to Potash Road. Follow the Colorado River towards the potash mine. Pass the Potash climbing area on your right and continue on until you see a sign for Jug Handle Arch on the left side of the road, which is about 15 miles from the junction of Potash Road and US 191. The arch is on the right side and is not obvious until you have passed the sign. Take your first right turn after the sign and you will be on Long Canyon Road which leads past The Ship Yard (park at the first campsite on the right) and continues up to some switch-backs and Maverick Buttress.

84 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Toddy
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Texas Two Step
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Program Director
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Round-Up
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tequila Sunrise
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gunsmoke
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peccadillo
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dragon's Lair
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Done Lubin'
Trad 5 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Seventh Serpent
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dawn of an Error
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Happy Hunting Grounds
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
The Dark Passenger
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hot Toddy Maverick Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Texas Two Step Maverick Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Program Director Deadman's Buttress 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Round-Up Maverick Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Tequila Sunrise Maverick Buttress 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Gunsmoke Maverick Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops Shady Crag 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Peccadillo Deadman's Buttress 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Dragon's Lair Deadman's Buttress 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Done Lubin' Offwidth City 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 5 pitches
Seventh Serpent Reptilian Wall 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way Maverick Buttress 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Dawn of an Error Deadman's Buttress 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Happy Hunting Grounds Warrior Tower 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
The Dark Passenger Deadman's Buttress 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Long Canyon »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Cole Lawrence
Missoula, Montana
Cole Lawrence   Missoula, Montana
Almost died at Reptilian wall last week. Slid the halfway flake on "Two Scorpian Tessalons" about two feet down the crack. It almost rotated out of the crack before coming to a stop. It would have likely killed me and belayer. The block was still teetering when I lowered off. I put a large X at base of the climb. There is now a "booty trap" with two bail biners hanging from the drilled angle and bolt to the right of the flake. Not sure the booty is worth the possibility of this 10 foot flake coming off. It may be possible to bring a stick clip to clip the bolts without touching the flake get above the flake in the crack build an anchor, pull up rope and remove the flake.

Great route.... too bad. Nov 27, 2017
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
Hey all - What's the current state of the road from potash to Long Canyon? We were looking to get up there in a low-clearance rental car sometime between 10/7-10/12, but I heard recent rains may have trashed the access road...is that true? Oct 3, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
Yeah, the dark side of sanity Ben. Something that eludes you :) Also I just thought it was an interesting choice of car to take off any pavement. God Speed young fella. Jan 6, 2017
BigNobody
all over, mostly Utah
BigNobody   all over, mostly Utah
A Yaris huh? Jan 5, 2017
What's the current state of the road from potash to Long Canyon? I drive a toyota yaris and was wondering if it could make it out there without getting too messed up Jan 2, 2017
Carolyn
Boulder, CO
Carolyn   Boulder, CO
As of 11-1-15, the road to long canyon (from potash) is closed for rebuilding. Nov 1, 2015
steven sadler
SLC, UT
steven sadler   SLC, UT
Drove up to maverick buttress the other day in my girlfriends toyota yaris. Didn't have any problems at all. had to drive pretty slow a lot of the way but made it all the way to where the boulder hangs over the road. So unless your in a smart car, you can probably make it maverick buttress without any serious problems. Dec 3, 2012
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
Road condition update: 3/22/09 - Road is in good shape, passable to anything with 4 wheel drive (we saw a Subaru and Ford Escape). Also, there is NO CAMPING in Long Canyon. If you want to climb at Maverick Buttress, you can camp on top of the mesa above Long Canyon for free. Maps at BLM.gov show you must be a mile from the "main" roads in the area unless in a "designated site", but there aren't any of those, so camp a mile from the road, and stay away from the oil rigs. Mar 24, 2009
Word of Caution....when the road gets a decent amount of rain on it, the dirt turns REALLY slick. I was going down the first switchback below Maverick at about 5mph and it was like trying to stop on ice. Apr 9, 2007
As for the washed out road: around Thanksgiving we were able to drive a stock Ford Ranger from Potash up to Maverick - no problemo....

Cheers,

Tom Dec 1, 2006
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
The recent rain (October 06) has all but wiped out the road. A cehicle with a short wheelbase and very high clearnace, or a rental car, is required to get more than a mile up the canyon. You might be able to reach Maverick from 313, but you really don't want to take your standard 4WD through the washouts from Potash Road. Oct 14, 2006
As of 2004, Free camping is on top of the plateau, accessing Maverick from the North. The dirt road is almost as good as paved. The views are beautiful, and you're on BLM land if you are on the plateau (but not on it's very southern tip, which is part of the canyon).Furthermore, you'll have to walk 20 mns to go down to Maverick. An experienced 4WDriver can make it back up the loose, steep sandy road that separates the top of the plateau from the bottom of Maverick. Oct 11, 2004
no camping is allowed in long canyon and they do patrol it Dec 4, 2003
With the current state of the road up to Maverick Buttress, a high-clearance vehicle is definitely crucial. Also, the canyon is steep and narrow enough that there really aren't many good places to camp. The roadside spots on the Potash road are an option. Another option, especially if you have a low-clearence vehicle is to camp on the top of Island in the Sky and hike the one mile down Long Canyon to Maverick Buttress. Nov 6, 2002
Some of the other developed areas in Long Canyon are; Deadman's Buttress, Off-Width City, Reptilian Wall, and Jug Handle Arch. Eric Bjornstad's "Desert Rock: Wall Street to San Rafel Swell" is the most comprehensive guide book Mar 27, 2002

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