Type: Trad
FA: Charlie Fowler & Jack Roberts
Page Views: 8,833 total · 40/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 2, 2002 with improvements by Patrick92
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 150 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.

Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move straight up following the crack which thins slightly (#1 Camalots). Continue in perfect hands for about 100 feet to a rest just below the crux. Plug in a couple of small cams (0.75 and 0.5) and fire through the bulge with good finger locks to a three bolt anchor.

Two ropes are necessary if climbing from the ground and rapelling. The route can be done on a single 70M if starting on the boulder. Knot the end!

Protection

#0.5 to 3 Camalots, extra #1s and many #2s #0.75 for the crux.

Photos