All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > Potash Rd > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress

Gunsmoke

Name: Gunsmoke
Rating: 3.7

5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Maverick Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Buckle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Gettin' Schooled T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Maverick Buttress \| 7703 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Moki's Big Adventure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Unknown 2 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type:	Trad
GPS:	38.54492, -109.69654
FA:	Charlie Fowler & Jack Roberts 1987
Page Views:	11,798 total · 40/month
Shared By:	Bryson Slothower on Apr 2, 2002 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Sheep Aware Details

Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.

Description

This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 90 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.

Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move straight up following the crack which thins slightly (#1 Camalots). Continue in perfect hands for about 100 feet to a rest just below the crux. Plug in a couple of small cams (0.75 and 0.5) and fire through the bulge with good finger locks to a three bolt anchor.

The route can be done on a single 70M if starting on the boulder. Knot the end!