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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: Charlie Fowler & Jack Roberts
Page Views: 7,129 total, 37/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Apr 2, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is one of the best cracks anywhere in the desert. 150 feet of perfect hands to a thin crux just below the anchor. The route is long and sustained but there is a perfect rest below the crux moves. This is a good lead for those looking to break into 5.11 desert routes.

Gunsmoke is obvious from the parking area, it is the furthest left of three cracks on the broad face at the top of the hill. Start atop a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Jam up and left in a good hand crack then move straight up following the crack which thins slightly (#1 Camalots). Continue in perfect hands for about 100 feet to a rest just below the crux. Plug in a couple of small cams (0.75 and 0.5) and fire through the bulge with good finger locks to a three bolt anchor.

Rap with two ropes.

Protection

#0.5 to 3 Camalots, extra #1s and many #2s #0.75 for the crux.
Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
 
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
 
Awesome route!! Great rests in the right places. Its nice to having doubles of BD 0.4, 0.5, and 0.75 for the crux (didnt placed them all but had the option). Bring doubles in #1's and 4x #2 and 4x#3's. Leave the #4 on the ground unless you want to carry useless weight. 70m rope gets you down all the way. ENJOY!!! May 17, 2017
Mary Lane
Nevada
Mary Lane   Nevada
Fun Fun Fun!! Usually lead 5.9-5.10b and this is a fantastic route to lead. Definitely not 5.11, maybe a move or 2 at the top, but it protects fabulously. Just sustained. I took (5) #3s & used (3) after bumping them. #.75 & .5 were my crucial gear pieces and save a .4 or .3 for the very top once you hump over the bugle if that kind of thing scares you. You definitely do not need a #4 to protect this climb. Aug 9, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.11a
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.11a
Bring a number of 0.75's for the final section. I brought 3 and placed two. I'm also a total chicken on sandstone lieback.

If you're light on the 3's, you can coax a #4 in on the starting 30 feet. A handful of 1's, 4-5 #2s, 1 #0.5, and 3-4 #3's.

A nice long route. A 70m will get you back down to the starting ledge with length to spare. Feb 16, 2014
Richard Shore
  5.10+
Richard Shore  
  5.10+
Bring at least three or four #3 camalots. Even with this and three #2s I soloed the first 30 feet before placing a piece to conserve gear. Large hands will love this route. Enduro hands/cups is definitely harder than the supposed crux up top. Move fast! Apr 17, 2013
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.11a
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.11a
Well having small hands made this route a royal nightmare for me. Way harder than most 11a. The start was fists that tried to spit me out, then it was rattely cupped hands forever. Finally towards the top of the splitter I got one descent hand jam. The top was easy, jam straight in and use abundant feet on the right face. Apr 29, 2012
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
left start is superb! dont bother lay-backing the top "crux" there are plenty of good stemming feet. One maybe two off-finger jams then the rest is $$. May 19, 2011
Left Start 11c FA Platt '91 Mar 7, 2010
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10+
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10+
Easy for 11a even as an onsight. Probably closer to 10c. Oct 15, 2007
What a fantastic route. Don't forget to turn around and look down the canyon while you're climbing....spectacular! Apr 9, 2007
STICKY NICK
moab, utah
  5.11a
STICKY NICK   moab, utah
  5.11a
Another steller line at the beautiful maveric buttress. Fun and long makes this route one of the have to do's in this area a 70 meter rope works well on this route withe plenty of 2's and 3's for gear .5 and .75 for the top work well. Dec 25, 2005
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Great route. Mostly good hands, but the first third was bigger than I thought. Definitely bring a handful of #3 Camalots. The top crux seemed WAY soft for a desert 5.11. Just a few layback moves between good feet and your done. The hard part is just endurance. Oct 17, 2005
There is a direct start that makes the route much better and a real 11a. Doing the regular start this would be my recomedation for someones first "11a" onsight. For the direct start bring a few 1,2& 3 tcus.One 70m gets you up and down.A. Everhart Aug 29, 2004
2.5 Friends work very well on much of this route. Most of the 1 BDs are baggy and I only placed one. A better rack would have a few 2.5 WCs and 2 BDs in addition to several 3 WCs, (2 or 3) 3.5 WCs and the aforementioned smaller stuff for the top. May 10, 2004
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10c
A really great route with a little of everything. The route can be done lead and lower or rap with a single 70M rope.Pretty easy for the given grade of 11a, but maybe my small fingers reduced the apparent grade of the small crack up top. Dec 1, 2003