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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Fowler/Roberts 1987
Page Views: 851 total, 5/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Mar 26, 2004
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This is a really fun route with a relatively short, but hard crux. It is the elegantly curving crack to the right of Gunsmoke, and starts with perfect hands before some fingery 5.10 moves into a rest pod. Moving out of the pod up to the final crux seems about 10+ or so, then it's 10 feet of desperate, splitter rattly fingers to the anchors. Jump on it even if you're not a solid 11+ desert climber since the crux is short. Great route!

Protection

Friends: 3-4 #2.5; 3-4 #2; 3-4 #1.5 (save 2 for the crux at the top), and maybe a couple #1s

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Pulled an anchor bolt out pretty easily a few days ago..Not sure if it was an addition or the OG but it wiggled, and walked out a little too EASILY. After removing realized it was a poor hardware store bolt. There is currently a drilled pin and a decent looking Rap Bolt


extension Just the Tip! Oct 20, 2013
the continuation of miss kitty likes it that way is called miss kitty likes it raw. traverse right from the anchor on miss kitty into the last 50ft. of rawhide, the next route to the right. bring 5 or 6 red camalots for the combination. this link-up avoids the loose wide start to rawhide and adds some exciting, traversing face climbing and a good dose of perfect thin hands on great rock to the already good miss kitty. Nov 1, 2009
STICKY NICK
moab, utah
  5.11d
STICKY NICK   moab, utah
  5.11d
another one of my faverites in the area a defeinate must do.fun and hard makes this route Rad but that is becouse it is Trad. Excpecally its location. Dec 25, 2005
There's some really dangerous loose blocks on a ledge 20-30 feet over the current anchors that would be most prudently cleaned on rappel. Apr 6, 2004
Does anyone know if this route goes on? The crack tapers to fingers after the anchors and the rock is spectacular.Next time I'm in town I'm gonna give it a go, but I'm curious if it's been done already?

Jer Collins Apr 5, 2004