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Unknown Wide Crack
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Maverick Buttress
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Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Buckle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gettin' Schooled T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Maverick Buttress | 7703 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moki's Big Adventure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.54492, -109.69654 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,555 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Evan Wisheropp on May 27, 2017 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Incredibly fun 8" crack inside a cool halfpipe formation followed by very fun zigzags and a sweet 8' stemming roof. As an 8" crack, the half pipe is very size dependent. Smaller folks will find it significantly easier than taller folks. There is a chain anchor and a few rope grooves, deep enough I'd guess it's been climbed a few times. I'd love to hear what it's called and what others have graded it. I figured it was around 10+/11-. The route ends up using almost ever size of gear from small to giant. You should be able to scout from a distance which gear to bring, but it's a wide variety.
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