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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jimmy Dunn, Linus Platt
Page Views: 1,885 total, 19/month
Shared By: charley graham on Nov 7, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The pretty splitter up high on the south face of the Mav, but you have to brave the awkward sandy start. A steep #2 friend section leads into a very weird move where you kind of dive into the chimney and start wriggling. After doing this move, the old Astroman topo which advises a "chicken-wing dyno" entry into the Harding Slot makes a bit more sense. Once in the chimney, easy climbing sets you up to exit onto the upper face and the ringlock and thin-hand madness. Don't stop...

Location

The first route left of Gunsmoke which makes it the furthest right route on the south face of the mav.

Protection

Double set to #3 camalot with extra #.75 camalots and #2 friends.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
Classic Long Canyon sandcastle jamming. There is a trick to each crux encounter that makes it easier than it appears at first glance.
With regard to the second comment, the Jimmy Dunn story is terrifying. What a badass! Sep 25, 2017
brat  
It's more of a chicken-wing dynamic belly flop. Sep 24, 2017
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
There's an amazing account of the FA of this thing over on Supertopo.com . The thread is called "Any Jimmy Dunn stories?" and the account is by Bob Palais, comment #61 on June 21. Pretty cryptic reason for the name of the climb. Jun 22, 2010
Good route description. I did this route yesterday and didn't place anything bigger than a #1 Camalot and once over the roof, only .75 Camalots. It is possible to get down with one 60m rope. Nov 25, 2009