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Routes in Maverick Buttress
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[Redacted] T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mustang Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Stembox->Wide T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,028 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 28, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This short climb is insecure and sustained for it's mere 35' length. Still, the climbing is interesting. This climb is on the left side (E/NE) of Maverick wall and this time of the year one of the few climbs getting any sun beyond the beginning of the day, perhaps until 10 or 11am. Just to the right of the Hot Toddy and Tequilla Sunrise line there is a 35' chalked thin corner with a brief fist crack at the top. Climb on locks, clings, setms and liebacks to the anchors. A few of the sloping feet along the way were slippery due to shear (making sand) while climbing. Place pro to account for unexpected fall potential.
Despite the shortness of this line, it is still relatively good. As well, despite it's shortness, it also made a poor warm-up due to the power/thuggishness used for a few of the moves.
One area guide calls it "10d or 11b" (as a lieback or a crack climb). So maybe you can TR it and it seems easier (like 10d) if you don't have to gain stances to see and place gear, or maybe you could ignore a few good lie-back moves to make it feel harder (like 11b) but for the onsight lead I'll will call it 11a. A little more physical than a few climbs at that grade, but due to it's length, not more difficult overall.
Despite the shortness of this line, it is still relatively good. As well, despite it's shortness, it also made a poor warm-up due to the power/thuggishness used for a few of the moves.
One area guide calls it "10d or 11b" (as a lieback or a crack climb). So maybe you can TR it and it seems easier (like 10d) if you don't have to gain stances to see and place gear, or maybe you could ignore a few good lie-back moves to make it feel harder (like 11b) but for the onsight lead I'll will call it 11a. A little more physical than a few climbs at that grade, but due to it's length, not more difficult overall.
Photos
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