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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,517 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 28, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This short climb is insecure and sustained for it's mere 35' length. Still, the climbing is interesting. This climb is on the left side (E/NE) of Maverick wall and this time of the year one of the few climbs getting any sun beyond the beginning of the day, perhaps until 10 or 11am. Just to the right of the Hot Toddy and Tequilla Sunrise line there is a 35' chalked thin corner with a brief fist crack at the top. Climb on locks, clings, setms and liebacks to the anchors. A few of the sloping feet along the way were slippery due to shear (making sand) while climbing. Place pro to account for unexpected fall potential.

Despite the shortness of this line, it is still relatively good. As well, despite it's shortness, it also made a poor warm-up due to the power/thuggishness used for a few of the moves.

One area guide calls it "10d or 11b" (as a lieback or a crack climb). So maybe you can TR it and it seems easier (like 10d) if you don't have to gain stances to see and place gear, or maybe you could ignore a few good lie-back moves to make it feel harder (like 11b) but for the onsight lead I'll will call it 11a. A little more physical than a few climbs at that grade, but due to it's length, not more difficult overall.

Protection

.3-1" cams plus a large stopper or passive tricam.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11b
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11b
This is short, but it felt about 11b placing gear on lead. I thought it was fun and worth getting on. Oct 15, 2007