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Routes in Maverick Buttress
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[Redacted] T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broke Back Butt Hurt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Buckle Up T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bump and Grind T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Just the Tip! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Moki's Big Adventure T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Mustang Man T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rawhide T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Saddle Sores T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Short Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tequila Sunrise T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown 3 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 766 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Mar 31, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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Access Issue: Sheep Aware
Details
Long canyon serves as important habitat for Utah's only endemic herd of Desert Bighorn Sheep. Please be respectful of wild sheep and other wildlife by maintaining a quiet atmosphere and keeping at least 100 meters from animals. Desert Bighorn Sheep are especially sensitive to disturbance between April 1st - June 15th when they are raising their young. Consider limiting your disturbance during this time period by climbing in other areas. You may notice water catchment systems in strategic locations to provide water for wildlife in Long canyon. One of these exists near the trail to Maverick Buttress.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Two steep starts begin from the top of a boulder are are separated by a thick, rounded, slopey, portruding flake. Both the left and right variations depend on foot placements on soft sandy rock. The cruxy sections are the first two moves getting into the crack system from the boulder, and then later the upper section stepping into the overhanging offwidth.
Option 1, a small finger crack opens to BD #2-3 sized jams about 8ft off the ground but contains a large loose flake and rocks inside. This crack is very dirty and has a lot of loose debris compared to the crack system to the righ when you do option 2. This crack remains loose and sandy until the upper offwidth section, which is much more solid.
Option 2, the right side of the portruding rounded flake begins on small loose right foot holds, with the left foot in a deeply incut flared wide crack to reach up to an excellent hand jam lock about 7ft off the ground. This crack system continues upward on the right side of the portruding rounded flake, and eventually meets in the middle of the route just below the upper offwidth section.
Both variations meet in the middle of the route where there is a body sized incut area for a rest before the upper section which is wide enough for a knee. There are additional thin pockets to the right of the upper offwidth section where small there are fingertips and occasional fingers, but the rock is a bit softer. At the topout, there is a face on the right side with a great view down Longs Canyon all the way to Potash Road.
Option 1, a small finger crack opens to BD #2-3 sized jams about 8ft off the ground but contains a large loose flake and rocks inside. This crack is very dirty and has a lot of loose debris compared to the crack system to the righ when you do option 2. This crack remains loose and sandy until the upper offwidth section, which is much more solid.
Option 2, the right side of the portruding rounded flake begins on small loose right foot holds, with the left foot in a deeply incut flared wide crack to reach up to an excellent hand jam lock about 7ft off the ground. This crack system continues upward on the right side of the portruding rounded flake, and eventually meets in the middle of the route just below the upper offwidth section.
Both variations meet in the middle of the route where there is a body sized incut area for a rest before the upper section which is wide enough for a knee. There are additional thin pockets to the right of the upper offwidth section where small there are fingertips and occasional fingers, but the rock is a bit softer. At the topout, there is a face on the right side with a great view down Longs Canyon all the way to Potash Road.
Location
This is located on the wall directly across from Texas Two Step. When on the approach trail toward Texas two step, it will be on the left wall and is one of the first climbs when you divert right up the side canyon toward Round Up and Texas Two Step. It is below both of those climbs on hikers left when you begin scrambling up the boulders.
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