Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 744 total · 12/month
Shared By: Evan Ratzan on Mar 31, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Sheep Aware DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Two steep starts begin from the top of a boulder are are separated by a thick, rounded, slopey, portruding flake. Both the left and right variations depend on foot placements on soft sandy rock. The cruxy sections are the first two moves getting into the crack system from the boulder, and then later the upper section stepping into the overhanging offwidth.

Option 1, a small finger crack opens to BD #2-3 sized jams about 8ft off the ground but contains a large loose flake and rocks inside. This crack is very dirty and has a lot of loose debris compared to the crack system to the righ when you do option 2. This crack remains loose and sandy until the upper offwidth section, which is much more solid.

Option 2, the right side of the portruding rounded flake begins on small loose right foot holds, with the left foot in a deeply incut flared wide crack to reach up to an excellent hand jam lock about 7ft off the ground. This crack system continues upward on the right side of the portruding rounded flake, and eventually meets in the middle of the route just below the upper offwidth section.

Both variations meet in the middle of the route where there is a body sized incut area for a rest before the upper section which is wide enough for a knee. There are additional thin pockets to the right of the upper offwidth section where small there are fingertips and occasional fingers, but the rock is a bit softer. At the topout, there is a face on the right side with a great view down Longs Canyon all the way to Potash Road.

Location Suggest change

This is located on the wall directly across from Texas Two Step. When on the approach trail toward Texas two step, it will be on the left wall and is one of the first climbs when you divert right up the side canyon toward Round Up and Texas Two Step. It is below both of those climbs on hikers left when you begin scrambling up the boulders.

Protection Suggest change

Camalot sizes #0.5- thru #6. We used two #5's ad a #4.5 for the upper section. Not many places for a #4, but additional small cams were helpful to protect the start and the finish of the route. The anchors are two rusted pitons with webbing/cord in them.