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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 531 total · 10/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Mar 26, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A short finger crack leads to a cool stem box protected by #1 Camalots. The crack gets wide for a little bit after the stem box ends and then pinches back down to hands at the top. A little sandy but well worth doing.

Location [Suggest Change]

Way around the left side of the Maverick Buttress, about 60' to the right of Quickdraw.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Doubles from .5 to #4. One or two extra #1's.

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Is this route really only 115 feet? This is what the guidebook says, but we were up there with only a single 70m rope today, and it looked at least 150', so we did not try it. Looks cool though. Nov 27, 2014
aschmidt  
 
A 70 m works fine to lower off this route. It was very sandy when I did it so it didn't live up to its 4-star rating. Unless you have huge hands, I'd call it offwidth for most of the upper crack past the chimney/stembox. I used a new 5 camalot and had to do some hand stacking. Several 3s and 4s are useful too. Nov 12, 2015
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
One of my favorites at Maverick. The top is probably a bit tougher for small hands. I would bring at least two current #4 Camalots, maybe a third, 4.5 old style camalot or #4 friend size if you want a cam in the wide crux. the Zig Zag at the top is tons of fun, especially if your not exhausted by then and miss the rest stances to be had. Don't miss this one if you've made the journey to this side of the crag, 70m barely makes it back down. Dec 10, 2015
RyanLazzeri
  5.10d
RyanLazzeri  
  5.10d
70 meter is plenty. Two fours are nice for the wide bit. After that you can get a couple threes and a two. Anchor consists of two newer looking SMC bolts with several girth hitched Dyneema slings and two aluminum biners. Worth doing. Jan 6, 2018

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