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Routes in Maverick Buttress

Boot Hill T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gunsmoke T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Guy on a Buffalo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
High Noon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hot Toddy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Just the Tip! T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Mustang Man T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rawhide T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Round-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Saddle Sores T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Short Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Steers and Queers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tequila Sunrise T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Two Step T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 2 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown Wide Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unnamed "5.11" T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unnamed 11 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad
FA: Charlie Fowler?
Page Views: 3,486 total · 18/month
Shared By: Hill on Mar 20, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Texas Two Step is a very good route and possibly the easiest lead at Maverick Buttress. It's located about 200 feet to the left of Hot Toddy and starts on top of some large boulders. The route begins in a right face corner with a hand crack that leads to some great step like features for the feet on the face. Staying in the same crack, it becomes a left facing corner and the angle eases back. Jam away until the crack gets too wide and finish with some exciting moves to a good stance. Descent: Rap 70' to the boulders

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Protection [Suggest Change]

3 #2 camalots, 3 #3 camalots and at least 1 #3.5 and #4 camalots. It gets wide up top so if you have more big pieces bring the

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J. Buhl  
A very good route that gradually runs from tight hands to fist. I have relatively small hands so I was doing hand stacks at the top. The gear can run from #1 camalot to #3.5 or #4 camalot. As of 5-4-2003 the anchor slings should be replaced as they are a bit of a rats nest - unfortunately I didn't have my usual load of spare webbing. May 6, 2003
For gear, I placed a .75 camalot off the ground, 2 #1s, 2 #2s, 2 #3s, 2 #3.5s , and the top can take a #4 if you want to drag it along. Calling this the easiest lead on Maverick may hold true if you have big hands. But since I have small hands, the whole second half of this climb was fists and stacks. Not real easy for me, but one hell of a work out. Nov 9, 2004
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
Fun, interesting climb...that starts thin hands (#1 camalot) and widens to hands...and then fists (take the #4 camalot). It does offer a nice rest where it changes corners, so I would call it 10a, but I was following on TR. Certainly not harder than 10b.

A good climb if you don't have more than 3 cams of a given size.

NOTE: I replaced the anchor slings on 3/22/09. New slings and 3 oval biners. HOWEVER: the 2 bolts are slightly old 3/8", with loose hangers, a third bolt would be nice. Mar 23, 2009
Gary N
Durango, CO
 
Gary N   Durango, CO
 
Frances Fierst's gear recommendation is spot on. I took more #3's since I don't have #3.5's. Took a #4 as well. Glad to have had it. Mark's anchor is holding up just fine, but the bolts need to be replaced. The left bolt was loose and sticking out of the rock about 1/4". Both bolts are rusty. Nov 28, 2012
klane Lane  
 
Really fun moves right off the deck--and the ledges to the left make it really fun and stress free. The real challenge is at the widest part of the crack near the top--good technique will get you through! Be prepared to do some hand stacks and fist jams. Also, awesome location on the wall. Mar 23, 2015
michael s...
Denver, CO
michael s...   Denver, CO
On 4/29/15 we climbed this thing and noticed he left anchor bolt is loose. You can wiggle it with your fingers. Yikes. Apr 30, 2015

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