Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 38.54492, -109.69654
FA: Jeff Simpson
Page Views: 248 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jeff Simpson on Apr 19, 2024
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Sheep Aware DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Buckle Up and get ready for a fight with this wide unrelenting beast! Sustained and steep this wide climb stays pitched back the whole way and will keep at you. Don't be deceived by the rock surrounding the crack - the crack itself is great quality windgate.

The climb starts in the left corner of the large obvious belay ledge. A brief wide hands crack in the left face takes you into a small crevice where the corner crack meets and widens as it kicks back above you. Now it's time to buckle up! The climb continues up the 6's crack until you reach the shallow pod with a ledge that has a panel of smooth dark varnish on the left side.

First Ascent: June 11, 2023

Location Suggest change

On the far right side of the crag past Miss Kitty but before Bump and Grind. The climb starts on the left side of a large ledge at the base of the cliff with Short Crack starting up the right side of this same ledge. 

Protection Suggest change

2x#4 cams / 3x#6 cams / 1x#2 cam (optional for right before the chains).

A #7 could bring comfort to a brief section where the crack widens but then tappers back again. I found the #7 got in the way of my beta for this section and did not place on it on the FA.

Photos

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