Type: Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches
FA: Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 1,606 total · 23/month
Shared By: Evan Wisheropp on Sep 10, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

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Warning Access Issue: Sheep Aware DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Long Canyon is home to a high concentration of very high quality offwidth cult classics: The Mayor, Head Stack, Dark Passenger, etc… Surely “Bump and Grind” will eventually make the list as well. The approach is stupid easy, the climbing is unforgettable, the belay ledges are comfortable, and it even tops out to a solitary tower-like finish. It is an absolute must for any desert offwidth lover.

The crux pitch was put up as an onsight FA, but the first pitch took a bit more work. The first pitch was choked with thousands of pounds of loose blocks. I lead bolted a mixed route to the left, "Incredible Infusion Of Delights" (5.11) to get up to the ledge and rap down to clean this pitch. I had planned to just remove the bolts on IID and patch the holes since it's so different, but the route ended up being really fun and people were really digging the variety. IID also works well as an approach to this climb.

P1) 5.10

Climb a shallow chimney/corner clipping two bolts shared with the mixed gear route that forks to the left (Incredible Infusion Of Delights 5.11). Skip the third bolt and instead place a #9 up high in the dihedral (clipped long) then mantle rightward onto the ledge. Continue up a flared squeeze. Arrive at a small wedged block and place a #2 then a .75 on the right wall as you stem past them. The top block wobbles, but we’ve tried, it isn’t going anywhere. Continue up a #5 crack to a large belay ledge and two bolt anchor. 115’

Gear: .75-3.5” and #5-9 (x2), many slings.

P2) 5.12

This is the money! Bump a #6 while grinding up 45’ of solid arm-baring inside a flared corner. Use the good rest before the 30’ of severely overhanging arm-barring. A few energy zapping roofs will keep you plenty engaged. This pitch is almost all #6s, but a tight BD #7 or very tight VG #9 in the final overhang can prevent the need for another #6. 85’

Gear: #6 (x4-6) and BD #7 (x1). #3 big bros work well to cut down on weight.

P3) 5.7

Victory lap! A brief section of easy OW leads to some scrambling and a ledge with an anchor 20’ to the right. Don't forget to wander the tower summit, this route is the only way up there! 70’

Gear: BD #7 (x1) and optional #4 Big Bro

Location Suggest change

The climb is only visible from a very short section of the road. Take the standard Maverick approach trail and continue rightward past Miss Kitty and Short Crack. Keep looking up and once you can see the soaring offwidth, turn around and walk BACK 30' to a small opening to a cave. A short 4th class scramble lands you in a perfect shady nook.

Protection Suggest change

.75-9"

Photos

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